As I mentioned in my previous post on El Centro, the centre of the Casco Antiguo is comprised of the barrios Encarnación Regina and Alfalfa which I have put together here for simplicity’s sake. You’ll find a map of barrios here and a Google map of the city here.
There is yet another excellent bar de tapas in this bit of town:
Los Coloniales (Intermediate B+), 1 Calle Dormitorio, www.tabernacoloniales.es
This is a classic old tapas bar that gets lots of positive reviews and mentions in guides. There are two locations but this is the best one by all accounts. The rustic style food is consistently good and portions are cheap and generous. I try to arrive when it opens to snag a table on the popular terrace.
I had the Plato del Dia (daily special); Timbal Camperos (B), a gratin of ham, sausage, potato and various other veg with Salmorejo drizzled over the top.
My favourite though was the classic Sevillano dish of Solomillo al Whisky; pork tenderloin in a whisky sauce (B+). I love the roasted whole cloves of garlic. It was so much better than the similar Sollomillo Ajo I had at Sol y Sombra (see my Eating in Triana post).
Finally, Pionones, a typical dessert of Granada (B+). Typically it has two parts: a thin layer of pastry fermented with different kinds of syrup and rolled into a cylinder, and secondly a topping of toasted cream.
All the red wines I tasted were fine (B) but nothing out of this world. Four glasses of wine, including a PX to finish, came to a measly €17.20.
Another plus is that all the staff who work here are very nice people, which to me is as important as the food. Already looking forward to the next time I can go.
The opposite is true of this place…
El Rinconcillo (Intermediate B), 40 Calle Gerona, www.elrinconcillo.es
This is Seville’s oldest bar, opened in 1670.
Visually it’s a wonderful place with a beautifully tiled interior.
And old posters advertising the Feria (Seville’s fair) on the walls.
Unfortunately though the food isn’t up to much and the wine I had was quite mediocre.
And the service isn’t very friendly.
So a place resting on its laurels, but it’s worth popping in for a look.
Los Claveles at 1 Calle Capataz Manuel Santiago, opposite El Rinconcillo, is a nice old place too, but I haven’t tried their food. 2018 update: I have since and it’s okay. Try the Tortallitas de Camarones.
Near here there’s a good shop for kitchen hardware. Isaias Sainz at 28 Calle Francos has been around forever apparently. My favourite purchase from here was a pair of meatball scissors . NOW CLOSED! 🙁