Archive for the Murat Category

Bari – posher nosh in mid-town Murat

Posted in Bari, Italy, Murat, Puglia on April 5, 2015 by gannet39

Please see my previous post for buildings, bars and shops in Murat. This post is just about restaurants. Most of the more modern mid range to high end places seem to be in this neighbourhood. Here’s my Google map with everywhere on.

Terranima (High Intermediate A), 213 Via Nicolò Putignani, Tel. 080 521 9725, www.terranima.com

One of my favourite places in town, it’s also a Gambero Rosso selection and a Lonely Planet top pick. You can eat reasonably-priced well-cooked traditional fare, served by nice people in pleasant surroundings. What more could you ask for?

Everything I’ve eaten here is A/B and their own label house red is a good buy. They have some interesting local amari should you like this kind of digestivo.

On two different occasions I spent €35 and €45, which was good value for money.

La Bul (Advanced A), 52 Via Pasquale Villari, Tel. 080 523 0576, www.ristorantelabul.com

Off the beaten path so a little hard to find. It looks like it’s shut but ring the bell and they’ll let you in. The interior is bright and modern but I preferred to sit in their pleasant yard with its honeysuckle covered walls. The helpful and friendly co-owners Antonio, the young chef, and Francesca, the manager, both speak  English and are always chatting with their customers.

I had the €50 tasting menu which was good value given the quality of the food and that included a few glasses of wines from Salento. There was more than one amuse bouche as I remember but the star was a grissini wrapped with what I understand was cured pigs cheek. It was a flavour epiphany for me (A+).

Next I had Mazzancolle al Vapore e Acqua dei Tre Pomodori (steamed king prawn with three types of small tomato). This and other dishes were garnished with a wild herb called ‘limoncello’ (due to its lemony taste) which Antonio told me grows wild on the rooves of Trulli.

Francesca told me their seafood had come from Mola di Bari  the local port where I was working the next day (please see separate post).

I followed on with Risotto al Peperone Crusco, Straccatella e Polvere di Alici (risotto with red peppers, creamy mozzarella and powdered anchovies).

Maialino con Gelatina di Mocato di Trani e Salsa di Aglio Dolce (a tiny piece of piglet with a fig and a jelly of local muscat wine and sweet garlic sauce).

Varazione di Crumble e Crema agli Agrumi (I think apple crumble with citrus infused cream).

Finally my favourite Amaro di Capo, enlivened with a strip of orange peel.

The final bill came to €55, which is good value for what I got I felt.

All excellent and highly recommended for a treat. Definitely on the favourites list.

Biancofiore (High Intermediate B+), Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Tel. 080 523 5446, www.oraviaggiando.it Closed Wednesday

Another modern and slightly posh place but still friendly. I had their tasting menu for €35 which was good value.

This involved Calamaretti Scottati con Piselli e Scaglogno al Forno (seared squid with peas and shallots baked in the oven).

Cappellacci con Mantecato di Baccala su Vellutata di Asparagi e Scaglie di Bottarga (a stuffed pasta filled with cream of saltcod and asparagus and shavings of mullet roe).

Trancio di Ombrina con Parmentier di Patata, Rucola e Friggitello Saltato (local fish with mashed potato, rocket and pan fried green peppers).

Soffice ai Frutti di Bosco con Salsa allo Yogurt (forest berries with a yogurt sauce), and a couple of little extras including glasses of Muscat di Trani and their own thick, treacly, homemade nocino (a local amaro made with walnuts).

So in short a modern, friendly place that serves good food at a good price.

Ai 2 Ghiottoni (Advanced A/B), 11B Via Putignani, Tel. 080 5233330, www.ai2ghiottoni.it

This is generally considered to be the best place in town. It is good but a bit too high end for me. I’ve been twice and had two different experiences, once as a lone diner and once as part of a group.

When I went by myself in 2014 I received a warm welcome from the tactile owner but was underwhelmed by the slightly snooty service. Perhaps to be expected as I tend to show up in t-shirt, jeans and trainers.

In 2009 I’d had my first taste of burrata here which was a flavour epiphany at the time but I wasn’t that impressed by it this time (B), perhaps because it was a day old. The fresh ricotta it came with was amazing though (A).

The Bavette (‘little dribble’, thinner and wider than linguine) ai Frutti di Mare was good for the price (B+). Everything else was fine except the unsolicited house special, the Spaghetti Assassina I think, long pasta tossed in singed chilli oil, which was one of the worst things I’ve ever eaten in an Italian restaurant (D). And it’s their special! Maybe I just caught a bad one…

I did have one good new experience though. Their homemade ‘Mandarino’ made a nice change from limoncello, but you wouldn’t want to drink too much of it (B).

The bill came to €44 which isn’t too bad but I don’t think I’ll be back by myself.

In 2009 I wrote: Eleven of us went to this fantastic restaurant (appropriately named ‘The Two Gluttons’) after a training convention and had a huge multi-course banquet with drinks for only €40 a head.

Our starters included some sublime ricotta, burrata mozzarella (hard exterior and a soft interior filled with cream ) and panzerotti (deep fried air pockets of dough filled, in this case, with mozzarella) and a salad of boletus mushrooms with celery and parmesan (all A).

Also nice were the fried olives, polenta, two types of octopus, some other grilled mushrooms, omelette and deep fried polenta (B).

My main was a plate of grilled prawns and scampi (A), one neighbour loved her Orichiette with Cime di Rape (a member of the broccoli family) and another the Spaghetti Assassina (pasta coated in chilli and tomato and flash-fried).

The wines were a wonderful Negromaro red (Cantine due Palme)(A) and the white a Locorotondo DOC (Bianco Vendemmia ’08) (B+).

And then came dessert! Several plates piled high with canoli, baba, sfogliatelle, fruit tarts, almond macaroons, figs , pomegranate (A) as well as chocolate balls, roast chestnuts, a huge bowl of liquorice, a slab of chocolate and jugs of homemade limoncello (B).

Pizzeria O’Chalet (Intermediate B), 18 Via Domenico Nicolai, Tel. 080 523 8303

Recommended by a colleague for its seafood, this reasonably priced family restaurant is quite handy if you’re staying at the Hotel Leon D’Oro. The Neapolitan style pizza is supposed to be good too.

Everything I had (Cavatelli ai Frutti di Mare and char-grilled baby squid) which were both fine (B). The cooking is simple and the portions are generous which is all you want most of the time.

I couldn’t manage the house white though (C-) and.I felt the replacement bottle of Fiano (B) was a bit expensive at around €20. Maybe check the price before ordering bottles. A good place all in all.

Bari – Quartiere Murat – shops, bars and buildings

Posted in Bari, Italy, Murat, Puglia with tags , , , on April 5, 2015 by gannet39

Quartiere Murat is where most of the good mid-range and high end restaurants are located. Please see my next post for food, this is about all the other stuff.

The Murat district is bordered by the sea and the old town Barivecchia to the north, and the train tracks to the south. The other city quarters of Madonella and Liberta are to the east and west.

It’s named after Joachim Murat who was a Marshal of Napoleon Bonaparte and head of the government of the Kingdom of Naples, who ushered in the construction of the new area. The walls surrounding the old town were dismantled on the land side and replaced by Corso Vittorio Emanuele which allowed the city to expand.

At first, much of this part of town seems quite unattractive with relatively modern blocks squeezed together by dirty streets with narrow pavements. However, there are some lovely buildings dotted around if you can find them.

I love the over the top Art Noveau stylings of Palazzo Mincuzzi (corner of Via Sprano da Bari and Via Putignani) which is now a clothes store in the posh shopping district (pedestrian streets Via Sparano and Via Argiro).

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You can also find Teatro Petruzzelli near here at 12 Corso Cavour. It’s the fourth largest theatre in Italy but is sadly closed in 2014 due to the state of the economy.

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I don’t know what this building is called (at 127 Via Putignani, on the corner of Via Cairoli) but I love the detailing and the animal heads above the balconies.

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Each animal is carrying its typical food in its mouth so the walrus has a fish, the fox has a bird, the ram some grass and so on.

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I’m not quite sure what its religious function is but Palazzina San Clemente at 245 Beata Elia di San Clemente has a beautifully carved stone entrance.

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20140628_200311Here’s a bit of dirty and forgotten Art Nouveau at 205 Via Putignani, just a few doors down from Ristorante Terranima.

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20140615_130641An excellent deli is Salumeria de Carne Francesco at 128 Via Calefati. In 2009 I managed to get a bottle of fragolino, an apertivo infused with whole wild strawberries from here. It was hard to get at the time because the alcohol was too low for it to be considered a wine, leading to an uncertain legal status.
Taralli biscuits are a local speciality, the fennel (finocchio)and onion flavours being especially tasty but ideally they should be eaten a day or two after purchase.
Confitteria Mucci at 116 Via Principe Amedeo is a sweet shop with a lot of tradtion (see my Andria post).

Enoteca Vinarius De Pasquale at 87 Via Marchese di Montrone is a sizable wine shop, founded in 1911, with an extensive range of Puglian wines. They also have an online shop.

Their efficient staff helped me post a dozen bottles of Fiano ‘Minutolo’ by Cantina Polvanera back home and they all arrived safe and sound. I think they worked out at about £10 a bottle in the end, only about 25% more than their price in Italy which was very cheap to start with.
Cantina Cairoli is another big enoteca at 81 Via Cairoli. Local varietals recommended by my national manager Claudia (who is also a qualified sommelier!) are the reds Primitivo Manduria and Nero di Troia,

La Taverna del Maltese (Intermediate B), 67 Via Nicolai

20140630_224242This is an everyone-friendly bar (PACE flags on the wall) with a large screen for watching the match inside and a spacious terrace out back, which is unusual for this part of town.

There are a few, mainly German, draught beers on offer which are fine but I haven’t tried the food.

There are several bars along at the old town end of Corso Emanuele.

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