Due to its strong trade connections with the Near East, Genoa has played a crucial role in the historical development of the confectionery industry in Europe. It’s said that the Genoese first learned of sugar and the processes for making sweets at the time of the first crusade, specifically in 1099 during the three-day siege of Tripoli in Syria. After the successful conclusion of the siege they took this new knowledge home and started to manufacture confectionery for themselves.
The oldest confectioner in Genoa, and indeed Italy is Confetteria Romanengo, founded in 1780. Their beautiful store at 74/76r Via di Soziglia dates from 1814 and was inspired by the elegant confectionery shops of Paris. Past patrons have included such royal houses as the Savoys, and famous individuals such as Giuseppe Verdi.
The sculptures on the shop front depict a dove (a symbol of peace as the Napoleonic Wars had just finished) flanked by angels holding boxes of candied fruit, and below the name, Mercury’s winged helmet above a cornucopia filled with fruit and flowers.
The shop window displays are worth a visit in themselves.
Romanengo are particularly famous for their candied fruit which in the past was considered an important food for sailors. It was thought the candying process preserved the fruits’ nutrients during long journeys.
Other famous wares are dragées (sugar coated almonds) and chocolate eggs.
Just a few doors down from Romanengo at 98 Piazza di Soziglia is another local institution, Bar Pasticceria Klainguti. The bar was opened in 1828 by the four Klainguti brothers, pastry chefs from Switzerland who had come to Genoa to embark for America in search of their fortune. For some reason however they became marooned in Genoa, so they opened their shop here instead.
Today Klainguti is known for its strudel and cakes, but you can also have lunch or take an aperitivo here. Unfortunately they’ve always been closed when I’ve been in town.
Not too far away at 2/R Via del Portello, just off Via Garibaldi, is another centenarian, Pasticceria Profumo, opened in 1862.
They are recommended for their gelato, but they also have a wide range of sweets and pastries.
Their window displays are beautiful as well.
Yet another venerable institution is Cioccolateria Romeo Viganotti, founded in 1866. Their well-renowned gelateria at 12R Salita del Prione is quite easy to find.
I can recommend their classic hazelnut and pistachio flavours, the latter being a grey colour rather than bright green, which is an indication of quality.
The chocolate shop at 14R Vico dei Castagna is harder to locate. You have to go round the back of the gelateria and through this plain door.
Inside is an Alladin’s cave of handmade chocolates. I opted for their dark chocolate selection; small simple lozenges infused with flavours (my favourites were the bergamot and ginger) that sit perfectly in the roof of your mouth.
Having only opened its door in the early 1900s, Pasticceria Tagliafico at 31/R Via Galata is a relative youngster.
They are famous for their Pandolce, a fruit cake similar to Panetone, traditionally eaten at Xmas but now avaialable all year round. The recipe includes dried raisins, candied lemon peel and of course pine nuts, the quintessential Genoan ingredient. There are two types, the original Pandolce Alto and a simpler version utilising baking powder called Pandolce Basso, which is known as Genoa cake in the UK.
Again there are many other sugary delights to try, and they serve coffee too.
A favourite spot of mine is the characterful Pasticceria Liquoreria Marescotti at 35r Via di Fossatello. Established in 1780 and closed in 1979, it reopened in 2008 and currently does a brisk trade as a cafe.
The pasticceria is now co-owned by the family who invented the ugly looking but delicious Amaretti di Voltaggio. I liked them so much that I had to take a box home.
They are also recommended as a place to try Sacripantina, a delicious Genoese sponge cake.
Another nice little cafe is Cremeria Buonafede at 12R Via Luccoli. (There’s a second branch at 59R Via degli Orefici).
Here you can try Pànera, a coffee-infused whipped cream, invented in Genoa in the 19th century. The name is a contraction in Genoese dialect meaning ‘black cream’. Apparently it was created by mistake when a servant accidentally poured coffee on whipped cream.
It can be eaten by itself as a semifreddo (soft ice cream) but I had a Caffè con Pànera where an espresso coffee is topped with a scoop of frozen cream, and perhaps dusted with cocoa powder or maybe cinnamon.
In Piazza Corvetto, at the top of Via Roma, one of the poshest shopping streets in town, is Confitteria Pasticceria Mangini, a belle époque grand café that dates from 1876.
Historically Caffè Mangini was a meeting place for journalists, writers and artists. The interior features lots of mirrors and chandeliers and waiters in formal black and white, but it’s not as snooty as some similar places can be.
The café sells its own sweets and cakes and the Sacripantina is also recommended here. I love my chocolate though, so I got this fantastic creation with my Macchiato.
Think I’ve covered most of the famous places. I didn’t make it to Pasticceria Svizzera 1910 or Zuccotti Fabbrica Cioccolato, but I always like to leave something for next time.
You’ll find everywhere mentioned on my Google map.