Archive for the Ratchathewi Category

Bangkok – boat noodles in Ratchathewi

Posted in Bangkok, Central Region, Ratchathewi, Thailand with tags , , on April 16, 2019 by gannet39

After visiting the Suan Pakkard Palace (see previous post) I headed a few blocks north to the Victory Monument (a big roundabout to the north-east of the old town) for something to eat.

The street vendors in the alleys north-west of the monument are famous for Kuaitiao Ruea or Boat Noodles, a type of noodle soup once sold from small boats on the canals.

Sam-Ang Kulap (Elementary B+), Ratchawithi Road, Khwaeng Thung Phaya Thai, Khet Ratchathewi

If you can’t use my Google map or read Thai, then this place is just by the canal bridge on Ratchawithi Road (really an alley), opposite this modern temple.

It’s a fair sized space with several long trestle tables under a tin roof. My order was taken by a little girl who spoke excellent restaurant English!

As seems appropriate, the food is served from a boat-shaped counter.

The soup also contains a seasoning called Nam Tok which is cow or pigs blood mixed with salt and spices.

Other ingredients might be both pork and beef meat, dark soy sauce, pickled bean curd, meatballs and pig’s liver.

~Which along with morning glory, fresh garlic, fried garlic, cinnamon and chilli flakes makes for quite a powerful flavour as you can imagine. The noodles here are thin rice noodles although this can vary from place to place. On the side comes a bowl of fresh beansprouts and sweet basil leaves and another of fried wontons.

My only complaint was that the bowls were very small, but that’s down to tradition as the larger bowls were dangerous for the vendors to handle on a boat. I’ll order two next time.

Besides that it was a good experience and I’m glad I made the trip.

Some high-end food next…


Bangkok – a couple of museums

Posted in Bangkok, Central Region, Ratchathewi, Thailand with tags , on April 15, 2019 by gannet39

In September 2017 I visited a couple of museums in Ratchathewi and Pathum Wan neighbourhoods that had a focus on traditional architecture, arts and antiques. My map is here.

Suan Pakkard Palace, 352 354 Thanon Si Ayutthaya, Khwaeng Thanon Phaya Thai, Khet Ratchathewi,

This is a complex of five traditional teak houses all of which exhibit various historical items from different periods.

Exhibits include boats, ancient masonry, homewares, an automaton and various archaeological artefacts, some more interesting than others.

However my favourite thing was walking around the lovely garden.

Click on the photos to expand.

Jim Thompson House, 6 Rama I Rd, Khwaeng Wang Mai, Khet Pathum Wan,

Jim Thompson was a successful silk merchant who revitalised the Thai silk industry in the 50s and 60s. He built the complex in 1958 to house his extensive antiques collection.

Parts of old houses, some already 100 years old, were reassembled to create six new buildings.

The collection of antiques on display is very impressive.

Unfortunately though visitors aren’t allowed to take photographs inside the house so I have very few of the antiques themselves.

You are however allowed to stand outside the house and take photos in.

Again, the garden is lovely.

Especially the small Spirit Houses (click to enlarge).

The house eventually became a museum after Thompson disappeared in 1967 under mysterious circumstances.

After visiting Suan Pakkard Palace you might be in the mood for some noodles…

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