Archive for the Paseo de la Estacion Category

Jaen – Ciudad Nueva – Places for Food around Paseo de la Estacion

Posted in Andalusia, Ciudad Nuevo, Jaen, Jaen Province, Paseo de la Estacion, Spain with tags , , , on November 29, 2015 by gannet39

The ‘new town’ isn’t officially an area but for the purposes of this post it’s the more modern part of town, on the lower slopes of the hill. In particular I mean the two roughly parallel main streets, Paseo de la Estacion and Avenida de Madrid, and their offshoots.

Here’s my Google map of Jaen that shows all the places mentioned in all these posts, and a few more besides. The best place to eat around Paseo de la Estacion, or anywhere in town, is Casa Antonio which gets its own post.

As Jaen has such a good rep for quality ingredients, a visit to the local deli for take home treats is a must. The most famous one in town is Casa Paco.

They have two locations, one at 7 Plaza de los Jardinillos (opposite the main post office), and the second at 12 Paseo de la Estacion, both of which are very well stocked with local goodies.

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I always pick up a couple of local prize-winning olive oils here. The Paseo de la Estacion shop usually have a display of the best eight local oils on a special shelf.

I’d loved to have taken a big batch of the actual olives home too but one of the kind ladies said that the plastic tubs would explode in my baggage at an altitude!

Casa Paco are also known for their crisps which they bag on the premises. www.patatascasapaco.com The toasted almonds are a good buy as well.

Meson Rio Chico (Intermediate B), 12 Calle Nueva

A small friendly place recommended by Frommers, although without a star rating.

I came here on my first night and had my first experience of the famous local olives. These tasty specimens were fairly typical of what every restaurant provided. They’re definitely the longest olives I’ve ever seen!

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The tasting menu looked like a good deal so I gave it a whirl. It consisted of…

Hojaldre Relleno de Guacamole, Salmon y Delicia de Pina (puff pastry stuffed with guacamole and salmon with a pineapple sauce).

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Tosta de Cremoso de Patata con Crujiente de Lomo de Orza y Reduccion P.X. (creamy potato with a crispy fillet of orza and a reduction of Pedro Ximenez sherry).

Timbal de Veruditas de Temporada y Queso de Cabra Caramelizado, Tomate y Albahaca (a timbale of seasonal veg and caramelized goat cheese, tomato and basil).

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Lomito de Atun en Cama de Ajos Tiernos, Pasas y Crema de Citrico (loin of tuna with tender garlic, raisins and citrus flavoured cream). I remember I wasn’t too keen on this combination.

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Carrillada Iberica en Salsa de Esparragos Trigueros (beef cheeks in wild asparagus sauce) was tasty but didn’t look like much.

To drink I had a bottle of Campo Ameno, Syrah Barrica from the local Tierra de la Sierra Sur de Jaen IGP. Judging from the pattern on the bottle, this was made by the same people as the excellent Marques de Campomena I had at the parador.

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Finally, Tarta ‘Puro Chocolate’ con Dulce de Natillas y Frutos Rojos (‘pure chocolate’ tart with sweet custard and red fruits) which I had with a glass of PX.

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This is a cheaper place than Casa Antonio with similar ambitions but not quite achieving them (B/C). I’d definitely go again though.

Casa Vincent (Intermediate B), 3 Calle del Cristo Rey, Tel. 953 232 222, Closed Sunday eve and Monday

A Frommers one star suggestion, this is reputed to be one of the best places in town. It’s old school and a bit formal with a dark wood interior and bulls heads on the walls.

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If you are interested in the Moorish influence on local cuisine, this would be a good place to come, although the ‘typical local dishes’ I requested were just interesting and not particularly amazing. I’m sure if you stick to more standard orders you’d score it higher than I did.

As well as the usual olives, some excellent toasted almonds were put in front of me as soon as I sat down.

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For the first tapa I had cardoons with egg, a dish of Moorish origin, which came sizzling on a plate in a beautifully carved wooden tray. It looked better than it tasted (C).

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I also had artichocke hearts with ham (B) and some pork with chips and gravy which I wasn’t particularly keen on (C+).

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This was washed down with another decent (B) local red called ‘Glosa’ from the Sierra de Sur Jaen IGP.

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Finally a shot of Crema de Café (B) made by the same Castillo de Jaen brand who also made the Anis I had at the parador.

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Service was friendly from the younger English-speaking guy but the older chap (the owner?) didn’t want to try to understand my Spanish. I would come back but again give me Casa Antonio over this traditional place any time.

La Verja (Low Intermediate B+), 56 Paseo de la Estacion, at the bottom of the hill

A good place for simple home-cooked local dishes near the school I was working at. There’s nothing fancy about the food or the surroundings.

I had a menu-del-dia type lunch here twice and enjoyed it both times. The lentil soup, mixed salad and rabbit with garlic all stick in my mind as being good (B+). Can’t remember how much the bills came to but it was definitely very cheap.

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Jaen – Ciudad Nueva – Paseo de la Estacion – Casa Antonio

Posted in Andalusia, Ciudad Nuevo, Jaen, Jaen Province, Paseo de la Estacion, Spain with tags on November 28, 2015 by gannet39

I like this restaurant so much that it gets a post to itself. It is the best place in town.

Casa Antonio (Advanced A), 3 Calle Fermin Palma, Tel. 953 270 262, www.casantonio.es, closed Sunday evening and Monday

Chef Pedro Sánchez uses high quality local and international ingredients for innovative presentations. I like to treat myself to the Menú Degustación which includes two appetizers, five entrees, a fish and a meat course and two desserts. The current price is €52, less than €5 a dish, which is great value given what you get.

In 2015 I started with a chilled glass of Oloroso and some fantastic olives (A).

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And I tried a couple of their wonderful local olive oils (A) with the bread.

I followed this with Pan, Aciete y Chocolate (bread, oil and chocolate), a mainstay of the menu (B+).

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I told the owner I wanted to try local wines and he suggested a bottle of Eclo which was very good (B+).

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This was followed by a couple of dishes utilizing I think the famous prawns from nearby Huelva. First prawns with yellow chilli (A).

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And then a red prawn in a broth (B).

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Then Ajo Blanco de Coco, Pina, Albahaca; an innovative take on a classic local soup, another mainstay (A).

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The asparagus in a mayonnaise based sauce with trout roe was very subtle (C).

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The Presa Iberica, smoked pork with a caper sauce, had heaps of flavor (A).

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Then I think some roast suckling pig.

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Then a tasty segment of Butifarra de Pichón (pigeon?) sausage. I love this Catalan sausage, just wish there’d been more of it (B+).

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Melon with sorbet and crystalised basil was a good cleanser but didn’t have much flavor (C).

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On the other hand the delicate bread-pudding like dessert was fantastic (A).

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It went very well with a glass of excellent Malaga Muscat (A).

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Also a complementary flask of very lemony homemade limocello, which was nice but not as strong as the Italian version (B).

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They have quite a collection of Spanish brandies here, about thirty in all, about ten of which I hadn’t tried. I took pot luck and went for the 1885 Gran Reserva Malaga which was fine but not amazing (B).

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As always, I left a very happy bunny.

And here is my review from 2013:

The tasting menu was only €47 for about 12 different plates, not including a couple of little extras not pictured. These were:

Pan, Aciete y Chocolate (bread, oil and chocolate); an unusual combination that works.

Trufas de Perdiz Escabechada, Foie Tartufo (truffles of pickled partridge and foie) and Croqueta de Trufa y Parmesano (truffle and Parmesan croquette), served with root vegetable crisps.

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Ajo Blanco de Coco, Pina, Albahaca (a local cold almond soup, not garlic as you might think, with coconut milk, pineapple and basil).

Yema, Trufa, Patata (a whole poached egg rather than just a yolk and grated white truffle, I think on a bed of potato puree). So delicious.

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Ensalada de Perdiz de Campo y su Escabeche Emulsionado (country partridge salad with a marinade emulsion). In Spain escabeche is a vinegar marinade which I’m not particularly fond of but I didn’t notice it here.

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Morrococo, Cocido Mareao. I know the former is a local chickpea mash sometimes referred to as Jaen hummus! Cocido is a stew but I’m not sure what ‘mareao’ refers to. Either it’s leftover stew that in this case has been mashed into the chickpeas, or it’s the stock from boiling the stew ingredients which is sometimes eaten as a separate soup, as is probably what they’ve done here.

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Papada, Anguila, Mango-Pasion (possible pork jowl with Anguilla eel and mango something).

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El Pez (Segun Lonja) or fish of the day depending on market availability. Not sure what fish it was but it looks like bream or bass.

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Cordero Segureño, Naranja, Cardamomo (local Segureña lamb with orange and cardamom).

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This might be Melon, Ginebra, Manzanilla al Limon (melon, ginger and apple with lemon) as per menu but the photo doesn’t really match the description.

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There was definitely apple in this dessert though.

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Last of all I was given some complimentary chocs at the end and this strange milky digestif which was nice but again I don’t recall what it was exactly.

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All the wines I had here were excellent. I sampled two Ribera del Duero reds (the Matarromera crizanza and a young wine by AC), a Rioja (Bai Gorri 2007) and a local red Marcelino Serrano from the Sierra de la Sur de Jaen IGP.

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With a dessert I also had a glass of Moscatel de Alejandria, an ancient grape.

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An excellent meal at a very reasonable price.

And a couple of other reviews of my first meals at Casa Antonio:

One of the highlights for me is trying their local olive oils. The flavours are unlike any oils I’d tasted before and a couple are luminous green in colour!

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On my first ever visit I started with a small bowl of salmorejo, my favourite cold soup.

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After this I had Espaldilla de Cordero Segureno con Pure de Patata y Ajo Morado (Shoulder of Segureño Lamb with Potato Puree and Purple Garlic).

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And to finish some aged Manchego cheese. It could have done with some membrillo but it was still good.

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On the next occasion, Arroz Negro de Calamares su Alioli (rice made with squid and its ink with an accompanying sauce of emulsified garlic and oil).

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Can’t remember all the wines I tried, but they were very good.

Followed by Cochinillo Lechal en Dos Tiempos, Cebolleta a la Naranja y Cardamomo (twice-cooked (?) suckling piglet with chives, orange and cardamom).

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Not quite sure what this apple and cream creation was called but it was very nice.

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Suffice to say my stomach is always singing when I leave this place!

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