Archive for the Málaga Este Category

Málaga Este – places to eat around El Palo beach

Posted in Andalusia, El Palo, Malaga, Malaga Province, Málaga Este, Spain with tags , , on November 18, 2017 by gannet39

El Palo is the next beach along from Pedregalejo. For me it made for a nice walk along the beachfront.

There are heaps of restaurants along the way but this first one is worth going the distance.

El Tintero (Elementary A), 340 Avenida Salvador Allende

El Tintero is a large and very famous chiringuito that attracts an avid crowd of followers. The food is good (B/B+) but nothing out of this world, just what you’d expect from a good Spanish beach restaurant.

What makes them special though is the way they serve the food. The waiters collect plates of whatever the kitchen has just made and parade them around the tables shouting out their wares until someone takes a fancy to what they have and claims it. It’s much more fun than ordering from a menu which is why they are so popular.

I came with my local friend Juan for a light lunch and a few beers. We had an Espeto de Sardinas which Juan taught me how to eat like a Malagueno; with your hands nibbling around the middle and discarding the backbone with the head and tail still attached. A squeeze of lemon juice is all that’s required as they are already salted.

I have a penchant for prawns (it’s the Norwegian in me) so we also had a plate of these delicate white prawns which I think are Gambas de Huelva by the look of them. Again, a little lemon juice is all that’s needed.

After a meal like this, it’s quite okay to suck your fingers (‘chuparse los dedos’).

El Tintero is a great experience which I thoroughly recommend.

Candado Beach (Advanced B+), Cliub Náutico El Candado, Carretera de Almería (no number), http://www.grupogorki.com

A posh place a bit further along the coast from El Tintero, technically in El Candado neighbourhood but included here for simplicity’s sake. It’s a kind of beach club affair with posh sun beds and a large semi-covered restaurant terrace, located next to a marina far away from the madding crowds.

I was pretty full from lunch and wasn’t keen on their high prices so I only had an Espeto de Sardinas and a couple of glasses of Verdejo for €10.60. Service was efficient and friendly. Be nice to come here to eat with company or spend a day luxuriating in the sun.

El Cobertizo (Intermediate C), 25 Avenida Pio Baroja

I came here because it gets a shout from the Michelin guide but I wasn’t too impressed. The service was good but the food didn’t cut it for me, but that could be because I didn’t order very well.

I love broad beans and black pudding so I went for the ‘Habas Naurales Salteadas con su Vaina, Cebolleta, Jamon y Morcilla Grainaina’ (broad beans sautéed in their pods with scallion, cured ham and Granada style black pudding) but what arrived was rather unsightly, too salty and way too big for me to finish (C).

‘Rabo de Toro’ with chips is hard to get wrong (B). The Tagus red wine and Principe brandy, both from Málaga were drinkable but not particularly special (B-).

With cover, water, dessert and coffee the final bill was €51.

A disappointing experience but maybe if you’re not as strict about having local dishes and drinks as I am, you might have a better meal.

And that was my cheap and cheerful holiday in Málaga. Nothing too wild, just a relaxed recharging of the batteries. Definitely recommended.

Málaga Este – places to eat around Pedregalejo beach

Posted in Andalusia, Malaga, Malaga Province, Málaga Este, Pedregalejo, Spain with tags , , , , , , , on November 17, 2017 by gannet39

Pedragalejo is a long, manmade beach in Málaga Este. It’s about fifteen minutes on the bus from central Málaga.

It’s a popular area with heaps of restaurants and bars along the long Paseo Maritimo. I’ve put the ones I visited on this Google map.

You can get a good run in along the Paseo in the mornings which is when I took these photos (hence the lack of people). Over the bay you can see Torremolinos on the left in front of the Sierra de Mijas mountains and Malaga on the right.

At night every restaurant will be grilling seafood in these little sand-filled boats. The boats can be swivelled so the wind doesn’t smoke out the diners.

The most popular choice is an ‘Espeto de Sardinas’, grilled sardines on a skewer which is stuck into the sand near the flames. This is very typical, in fact Malagueños get their nickname (Los Boquerones) from their love of sardines.

El Balneario aka Baños del Carmen (High Intermediate A), 26 Calle Bolivia, www.elbalneariomalaga.com

This is my favourite place to eat and drink in Málaga, well worth the walk or short taxi ride from the centre. It’s set in a beautiful location next to the sea with a nice view of Málaga across the bay. The atmosphere is magical at night time with the moon in the sky and the waves crashing against the rocks next to your table. The outdoor dining area is under a canopy but you might catch a bit of spray if you’re near the water.

I went twice, the first time on a Saturday night when they had a wedding in and the second time on a Monday when it was still quite busy but easier to get a table.

Reservations are probably a good idea but on both occasions the lovely lady front of house sorted me out and found me a table. The other staff were generally very nice as well even though they seemed very harassed at times.

You’re not supposed to have half portions but the amiable section chief let me have a media of Croquetas de Puchero which were excellent (A). The Croquetas de Bacalao on the second visit weren’t quite as nice but still pretty good (B+). The salad that came with them had a wonderful dressing (A).

The first time I had Gambas Plancha, a bit pricey at €20 for fifteen, but very good (A). A bottle of La Goleta Verdejo was pretty good (B) and well priced at €12.

On the second visit the Calamar Plancha was huge (I could only manage half of it) and again somewhat expensive at €24. I like it a bit crispier that it was but it was still good (B).

This time I had a bottle of Botani Blanco a really nice (B+) white from Málaga for €19 which upped the bill to a total cost of €48.50.

For dessert I had the Leche Frita and a glass of local Pajarete sweet wine which took the bill to €45.

On the top floor there’s a bar where you can get a fancy Mojito for €7.

It was too dark for my photos to come out sorry, but suffice to say it is a very romantic place. A top recommend, especially in the company of a loved one.

In August 2016 I rented an AirBnB in Pedragalejo and stayed on for four days holiday. I spent all my days lounging in the sun at this place…

Hotel La Chancla (Intermediate B+), 64 Paseo Maritimo El Pedregral, www.lachanclahotel.com

This is a small three storey hotel on the beachfront, the only hotel I know of in Pedragalejo, which has a restaurant and bar on the ground floor.

It’s a nice relaxing place for breakfast as from 9am they either had a violinist or a contrabass player playing soothing live music while you eat.

A narrow sunbed (hamaca) and sonbrilla (sun shade, sic) is €5 for the day or you can rent a double bed type affair on stilts for €24. You can get table service from a waiter who’ll bring you chilled beers in an ice bucket.

Kali (Elementary B), 62 Paseo Maritimo el Pedregral

Another good place for breakfast that’s right next door to La Chancla above, so you can still listen to the live music but pay slightly less.

Swan Bar (Intermediate B+), 67 Paseo Maritimo el Pedregral, www.facebook.com

The best Mojito I had on this visit was here (A) although when I went a second time a different bartender put way too much sugar in it (B-). Serving it in a jar is a nice touch. It’s also well priced at €6.50 a pop.

Helados Cremades (Intermediate B+), 34 Calle Cenacheros, www.heladoscremades.es

The best place for ice cream in the area according to my hosts because they make their own, unlike all their competitors.

Miguelito El Cartinoso (Intermediate B), 77 Paseo Maritimo el Pedregral, m.facebook.com

This chiringuito (beach restaurant specialising in seafood) is my host family’s favourite place to eat and for them the paella here is the best in Málaga. The Paella Mixta I had was pretty tasty (B) but the purists would scoff at mixing meat with seafood as many places do in Spain. With a tubo of Tinto Verano (B) and a half bottle of Marques Caceres white the bill on my first visit came to just under €30.

The second time I had the Calamar Plancha which was very nicely presented and pretty cheap at €14. With a couple of thirst-quenching tanques of Cerveza and a doble of Orujo de Hierbas, the bill came to €26.

Service ranged from dour and unsmiling to friendly and efficient over the two visits.

El Cabra (Intermediate C), 17 Paseo Maritimo el Pedregral, www.restauranteelcabra.es

Listed in 1001 Restaurants to Visit Before You Die, and a local institution since 1965 my experience here was sadly quite disappointing.

Unlike many places they will make a paella for one here but the Paella Mariscos wasn’t cooked properly (C) with a few grains of rice still hard and a pool of stock still sitting on the surface. The clams and prawn were nice though. Maybe it’s true that you do need to make it in large amounts for it to be good.

I had a half portion of Boquerones Fritas (fried anchovies) which were okay but pretty tasteless so I had to salt them a lot to enjoy them (B-).

The olives I began with were fantastic though (A) and the half bottle of wine was good so maybe I just caught them on an off day. Total cost with a beer €23.50. Service ranged from friendly to sour. I’d still give them another try if I was in Pedregalejo again.

If you’re prepared to walk a bit further along the beachfront to the next neighbourhood El Palo, there’s one place worth going to in the next post…

Málaga Este – places to eat around Malagueta beach

Posted in Andalusia, Malaga, Malaga Province, Malagueta, Málaga Este, Spain with tags , on November 16, 2017 by gannet39

Malagueta is the main beach for central Málaga, even though technically it’s in Málaga Este. Muelle Uno (Pier One) runs parallel to it on the other side of the peninsula.

The beach is completely urban with blocks of flats overlooking it along its whole length. None of them were of any architectural interest to me, except this one.

I’ve never been on the sands because it’s always so busy, but I have eaten at a couple of places nearby.

You’ll find everywhere on this Google map.

Ba (High Intermediate B), 4 Plaza de la Malagueta, www.grupogorki.com

This is a Japanese Malagueno fusion restaurant recommended by Guia Repsol, part of a group of restaurants that all do different things. I’ve not eaten in the main dining room but I’ve sat outside on the pleasant ground floor terrace which overlooks the beach.

I began with a Wakame salad dressed with sesame seeds, oil and togarashi (Japanese chilli), which was very good (B+).

I followed up with ‘Ostras Japonesa con Ponzu y Momiji’ which were fantastic (A+), if a bit pricey at €3.25 at each. I must try to recreate these.

By the way, Ponzu is a dipping sauce made from rice wine, rice vinegar, soy sauce, bonito flakes, konbu seaweed, and ideally fresh yuzu juice. Momiji I think refers to Momiji Oroshi which is grated daikon radish and red chilli although here it looked and tasted like plain old Tabasco to me, not that that was of concern.

I went with the restaurant’s own recommendation of the ‘Urumakis Huevo Escondido’; California rolls of butter fish and truffle concealing quail egg yolks and completely obscured by a thick pile of battered and deep-fried Chanquetes (whitebait), which I really wasn’t expecting. It was an original concept and sounded wonderful on paper but was quite disappointing in terms of texture and flavour (C+). Best avoided in my opinion.

I tried to cheer myself up with a couple of Salmon Nigiris which are hard to get wrong, although these were a bit on the titchy side (A-). I also had a pair of Tartar de Atun Nigiris (diced tuna with chilli on crunchy rice) which were just okay (B-).

However, the Revuelo white wine from Ronda was good (B) and very reasonably priced at just €9 for the bottle. My total spend was just under €50.

I might go back for the oysters and the more traditional Japanese food but the fusion stuff didn’t work for me.

Café de Paris (Advanced C), 8 Calle Velez Málaga, www.rcafedeparis.com

One of the best places in town according to the Michelin Guide and Guia Repsol, but a big letdown as far as I was concerned.

The à la carte menu has some hefty prices, and I’m sure the food listed on it is excellent, but in an effort to cut down on my restaurant expenditure I had their lunchtime ‘Menu Mediodia’ which was only €17.

You get three options for each course. To start I had the virtually tasteless ‘Ajo Blanco Frio de Alemendras con Uvas’ (B)…

… followed by the ‘Filete de Mero Café Paris’, topped with an unlikable gloopy sauce and plain boiled spuds (C). And to finish a slice of their ‘Tarta Casera’, homemade cake with a sweet syrup that really didn’t go well with it (B-).

With a glass of excellent local sweet wine (A), the bill was just shy of €20 which is very cheap. Just a shame the food didn’t work for me. Maybe the evening chef is better…

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