Archive for the Fremantle Category

Fremantle – food & drink in the centre

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, West Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , , , , , , , on January 10, 2020 by gannet39

West Fremantle is the city centre, the location of the original Swan River settlement. See separate posts for North Fremantle food and art and architecture. Here’s my Google map here.

Fremantle has some fantastic places to eat, these are my favourites:

Kazoomie’s(High Elementary A), E Shed Markets, E2 Peter Hughes Dr,

Located right next to the ferry quay, this is the perfect place to fuel up before heading to Rottnest Island (see next post).

Kazoomie’s specialise in North African and Spanish food but the star of the show is the Shakshuka; a traditional Mediterranean breakfast made with eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce containing chili, garlic, cumin and nutmeg.

They have a few choices but I loved the Lamb Red Shakshuka made with Kadaif, thinly sliced filo noodles and pita on the side. This dish has won numerous local awards including ‘Best Breakfast in Perth 2016’.

The Green Shakshuka with is a winner too. The eggs are poached with turmeric and garlic herb buttered spinach. There’s marinated eggplant and cows feta with the pita.

Shakshukas are very popular in Israel I later discovered which makes sense as chef owner Nimrod Kazoom is of Jewish origin. Here’s fellow Israeli, Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe.

Moore & Moore Cafe (Intermediate A), W D Moore & Co Warehouse, Building 46/42 Henry St,

Moore & Moore is a very laid back breakfast spot. I went three times because I liked it so much. There’s lots of shaded seating out in the back yard.

I can recommend The Avocado; avocado with fresh cherry tomatoes, goats cheese, organic tomato pesto, five seed rye and herb salad. Simple but very effective (A).

I also liked their Pulled Beef Burger; grass-fed organic beef tossed in aioli and served with pickled daikon, caramelised horse radish and onion (B+).

It’s a contemporary art gallery as well as a café. This amazing photo was on display when I went.

Bread in Common (High Intermediate A), 43 Pakenham St,

Possibly the best place to eat in the centre of Fremantle, certainly in terms of its decor. I didn’t score all the dishes highly but there were many that I did.

I came twice; once by myself for lunch and again with my brother in the evening.

For lunch I had the Oysters which were decent (B+)…

…followed by the Barrimundi (a popular local white fish) in a tomato and olive sauce which I really enjoyed (B+).

The Vermentino, a favourite wine when I was in Sardinia and Genoa, was a bit of a flavourless disappointment sadly (C+).

Then to finish a flight of cheeses including Australian Cambray Ashover and Cambray Gouda, both from Nannup in the south west. Also a Gorgonzola from Lombardy in Italy.

This session wasn’t cheap at A$134 for one but the second time Dan and I only spent A$172 between us.

We kicked off with a bowl of olives (B+) and some of their own bread (Rye, Olive Ciabatta, Sourdough and Black Brea) which although baked on the premises, I really wasn’t impressed by (C).

We also shared a plate of San Daniele, my favourite Italian cured ham (A).

Dan had the excellent Beef Brisket (A)…

and I had Kangaroo once more, although it wasn’t quite as good as the one I’d had at Bib & Tucker (B).

We had the cheeses again to finish. The Frankland Shiraz went well with all this (B) but it was a bit pricey at A$65 for what it was.

So not cheap but definitely a good spot to check out.

Little Creatures Brewery (Intermediate B+), 42 Mews Rd,

As luck would have it, the brewery for my favourite Australian beer is located in Perth.

It’s an impressive space that has been converted to be a huge bar and restaurant. Not tried the food but I’m told that it’s okay.

I came a couple of times for a cooling pint. Temperatures were in the mid thirties when I was there.

You can sit outside and look out over the harbour as well. The boat garage is right next door.

The ferris wheel over the road has good views too I believe.

Manuka Woodfire Kitchen (Intermediate B+), 134 High St,

I’d heard good things about this place from a staff member at Propeller so I decided to eat here with my bro on our last night in Perth.

We had the set menu for A$110 which was good but not amazing.

Proceedings commenced with a bowl of hot olives of various kinds (B+).

A bottle of Snake & Herring Riesling (B-) and a Negroni (B) added another A$75 to the total.

Char-grilled Honey Bugs which are a kind of slipper lobster I understand.

They taste a lot better than they look!

A good place, I’d go again.

And some stuff for the shopping basket…

The Fremantle Markets, located in a beautiful heritage building on the corner of South Terrace and Henderson Street, are definitely worth a visit.

Especially for this stall…

The Honeycake Shop (Elementary A), Fremantle Markets, 40/74 South Terrace,

I’d never come across honeycake before I had it here and as I’m a big honey fan, it totally blew my mind (A+). The prep must take forever but the results are amazing.

I believe it’s from Russia originally where it’s known as Medevik.

And elsewhere…

Kakulas Sister (Intermediate A), 29/31 Market St,

This is a great little deli which I’d definitely shop in all the time if I lived here. Instead I picked up two honeys to smuggle home; one from WA and the other from Tasmania. The latter ranks as my second most favourite honey ever! )The first was Bangladeshi mangrove forest honey which was freshly harvested for me and would take some beating). According to the helpful shop assistant, anything from Tassy is going to be good.

So heaps of great things to eat in Fremantle!

Off to Rottnest next…


Fremantle – street art

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , , on January 9, 2020 by gannet39

Fremantle is a hotbed for street art and you’ll find it dotted about everywhere.

My favourite is Kraken by Sheffield artist Phlegm but then I’m biased.

But there are lots of other great paintings.

In the previous post you may have wondered about the stripes of yellow paint across some of the buildings.

It all makes sense when you stand on the balcony of the Roundhouse and look down the High Street to the town hall at the end.

The work is called called Arcs d’Ellipses by Felice Varini. Nice idea but it didn’t end very well unfortunately.

Many of the paintings above and statues below can be found around the Fishing Boat Harbour which is a pleasant area to walk around. The statues show the jobs locals did in the harbour, but theres also one of local boy Bon Scott, the singer from AC/DC, which many people like to get a photo with.

Not sure what this chap is about though…

Food and drink next!

Fremantle – architecture old and new

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , on January 8, 2020 by gannet39

Fremantle, Perth’s port, has its own thing going on. Perched on the sea, on the southern bank of the Swan River, it’s a city to itself with its own personality. Just like its nickname, ‘Freo’ feels hipper and more chilled than central Perth. Some of this vibe is down to its architecture.

Unlike central Perth, lots of old colonial buildings remain, like these lovely old hotels.

As well as lots of other public buildings and offices.

Love these quirky residential numbers.

Not sure what you’d call this.

There are some nice bits of Deco.

Love the brutalist Port Authority building.

And this 80s looking fire station.

And there’s the odd modern shock squeezed in between the old stuff.

Perth’s oldest public building is here as well. The Roundhouse is the original gaol that preceded Fremantle Prison. It overlooks the titchy Bathers Beach where I spent the occasional day sunning myself.

To get an idea of what the area looked like in 1831, look at this painting by Jane Eliza Currie called ‘Panorama of the Swan River Settlement’.

We also did a tour of Fremantle prison which was an interesting experience…

And then there’s the street art…

Fremantle – chilling by the river in Bicton

Posted in Australia, Bicton, Fremantle, Western Australia with tags on January 7, 2020 by gannet39

My friend Karen lives in Bicton, a residential neighbourhood a short bus ride from Fremantle’s centre.

In the evenings a lot of people go to relax at Bicton Baths, a chilled spot by the Swan river. You can swim if you like, or do as we did and have a little picnic.

We grabbed some fish & chips from Bicton Fish & Burger Grill at 39B Bristol Avenue.

I tried the special, Red Emperador, which was a new fish for me (B+). Other fish on the menu were hake, pink and goldband snapper, Spanish mackerel and shark! The chips were okay (C) but Karen reckons chippies are generally better back in the UK.

When it comes to picnicing, she has all the bases covered.

The best Australian fizz is from Tasmania apparently.

While I was in Bicton, we celebrated her eldest son Tom’s thirtieth birthday.

I helped out by making five big curries to feed the guests.

And not a singler turmeric stain on my white t-shirt, happy days! 🙂 x

Perth – Eating and Drinking in North Fremantle

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, North Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , , on January 6, 2020 by gannet39

After Northbridge I moved downstream to Freo (Fremantle), Perth’s port at the mouth of the Swan River. Going further north along the coastline (the beach is pretty much continuous) you come to Cottesloe and Mosman Park which I’ve given separate posts. West Fremantle, the centre of town, also has it’s own post. My map is here.

I’d come to visit my dear friend Karen, a Derbyshire ex-pat and longstanding Freo resident, and she chose this venue to celebrate our reunion…

She took me to this place on Leighton Beach in North Fremantle, the first of many beach restaurants in beautiful locations overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Bib and Tucker (High Intermediate B+), 18 Leighton Beach Boulevard, North Fremantle,

It’s owned by Eamon Sullivan, an Olympic medal winning swimmer, so quality should be assumed. Snag a spot on the terrace if you can, especially in winter as it’s a good place to watch the sunset apparently. It was a bright sunny day in January when we went though so I had to splash on the sun cream.

The celebrations were intense so I don’t remember much except that it was all very good! The ‘Perfect Day’ Sauvignon Blanc defintitely fitted the mood.

The food was lovely. This was the Charcoal-roasted West Australian Octopus with Fennel, Apple, Smoked Almonds and ‘Crispy Bits’. Roast octopi are one of the finer things in life I think (A).

And you can’t go wrong with Saltcod Fritters with Lemon Aioli (A).

I had my first taste of Kangaroo here. I can tell you it’s pretty good when served medium-rare (B+).

There can’t be many countries that eat their national symbols. The only other example I can think of is the Welsh and their leeks.

The only let down was the overfried Chorizo (C) but then I have been spoiled by my trips to Spain.

Some more of the excellent local white wine made everything right though.

On another evening, Karen took me to another place nearby…

Propeller (High Intermediate A), 222 Queen Victoria St,

This Lebanese restaurant is one of her favourite spots and rightly so as the food is excellent.

Again I don’t remember the details as I was too busy chatting. Also my pics didn’t come out well unfortunately as it was quite dark out on the terrace.

I do remember we began with a Negroni and a Turkish Delight Martini which Karen loved.

To eat we had the cheaper of the two tasting menus at A$45 a head, as opposed to A$65, to suit our appetites. It was more than enough.

We started with some Salt Roasted Sunflower and Pumpkin seeds and a mixed bowl of olives including Gordal, Kalamata, Manazanilla and Liguria varieties.

Then scallops with white bean puree and chilli followed by Freo Sardine with Broccolini, Pine Nuts and Currants.

Rather than get a whole bottle we had two glasses of Ocean Eight Pinot Gris with the earlier courses.

Next I think Cemen Lamb with Green Beans, Raisins and Yoghurt. Cemen is a paste of ground fenugreek seeds, Turkish red pepper and mashed garlic which is used to coat the meat.

We drank a couple of glasses of Spinifex Grenache with the meat.

With a glass of PX and another of Rockford Cane Cut to go with the desserts (nice but forgotten), the final bill was a very reasonable A$200.

Mrs Brown (Intermediate B+), 241 Queen Victoria St,

After eating at Propellor we piled over the road to this wine bar which is Karen’s after work local. It was a bit quiet as it was the night before Australia Day but it’s usually much busier. All the same, it was lovely to have a quiet nightcap watching the blossom falling from the tree in the back yard.

I tried my first and only Australian Brandy here, the Saint Agnes five-year-old VSOP.

It was drinkable but brandy is not one of the Aussies fortes unfortunately (C). They have plenty more to make up for it though.

Over to Bicton, Karen’s neighbourhood next!

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