Margaret River – food and drink in and around town

Posted in Australia, Gnarabup, Margaret River, Margaret River, Western Australia with tags , on January 25, 2020 by gannet39

As I mentioned before, Margaret River is the name of a famous wine region about three hours’ drive south from Perth but the area takes its name from the river and associated town of the same name.

You’ll find all the places below on my Google map.

After I checked out of my Dunsborough AirBnB, my friend Karen and I rented a nice place for the weekend, just outside the town of Margaret River which is in the southern part of the wine region.

From the veranda we had a view of the sea in the distance while the Margaret River itself flowed past us down in the valley below. Video here.

It’s a magical spot, especially at night when all the stars are out.

In the mornings we drove the short distance to the sea…

…and ate breakfast here.

White Elephant Cafe (High Elementary B+), Gnarabup Rd,

This café is in prime position overlooking Gnarabup Beach. It’s very popular so you may have to queue for a short while. The food is worth the wait though.

Surfer’s Point at the end of Gnarabup Beach is a famous surf spot.

However on the day we went there was a swimming competition going on in the sea. Videos here, here and here. It made me feel healthier just watching them.

I’m told the hat made me look very ‘ocker‘!

In the evening we went into town…

Morries Anytime (Intermediate A-), 2/149 Bussell Hwy,

This is a great little spot in Margaret River itself. I was too busy chatting with Karen to grade anything but we both agreed that the food, the wine and the service were all really good.

We had the Pork Belly and the Grilled Haloumi to start…

…followed by the Chorizo and the Burger Board (in order of preference; beef, prawn and chicken).

With two glasses of SBS and an extra Rosily Grenache Shiraz and a Negroni for me, the bill came to a paltry (by our standards) A$112.

The minus grade was due to the live jazz combo who made it a bit difficult to have a conversation, but otherwise this is a great spot.

Even more good food next…


Margaret River – in and around Yallingup

Posted in Australia, Margaret River, Western Australia, Yallingup with tags , , on January 24, 2020 by gannet39

On another morning, I cycled to Yallingup, a small town on the western side of the Margaret River peninsula that’s famous for surfing.

Map here.

I stopped for a second breakfast when I got there…

Caves House Hotel (Intermediate B), 18 Yallingup Beach Rd,

This is a historic pub with beautiful gardens.

It’s also a hotel and members of the public can pay to have the buffet breakfast.

To be honest the food is pretty average but you can sit out on the terrace and share it with the some new friends.

The main lounge has some nice Art Deco fittings.

And there’s some nice artwork on the walls.

This is called ‘Contemplation’ by Mark Norval.

From here it’s a short ride to the beach. The coastline here is rugged but beautiful.

You can just make out the heads of the surfers braving the huge breakers towards the end of this video.

From here I cycled 7km to my lunch destination although I stopped halfway to cool down…

Cape Lavender (Intermediate B), 2 Canal Rocks Rd,

I’m still not sold on lavender ice cream (C) but this tea room focussing on all things lavender was a nice spot to cool down for a while.

And then onwards to…

Wills Domain (Advanced A), 57 Brash Rd,

This was perhaps my favourite amongst many wonderful eating and drinking experiences in Margs.

Everything was perfect; the wines, the cuisine, the service and the view. A great experience all round.

Which explains why they have won the Good Food Guide ‘regional restaurant of the year’ award on several occasions.

I arrived late as the cycle ride from Yallingup took a little longer than I expected, so I forewent a tasting at the cellar door and went straight to my reserved table outside.

It gave me a great view of the vines.

I opted for the seven course tasting menu which was a snip at A$110.

The first things to arrive were a medley of amuse bouches that didn’t feature on the main menu.

The heirloom tomatoes and pickled baby cucumber from the kitchen garden were fab (A).

The best though was the cod roe with curd and local olive oil. Simply beautiful, both in terms of flavour and appearance (A+).

The bread and the accompanying truffle honey, the latter a new concept for me, were also wonderful (A).

After this came the ‘snacks’ which all scored A/B.

I was quite impressed to receive some Beluga caviar, even when the German chef who served it confessed he wasn’t keen.

I was served wine by Guillermo, an affable sommelier from Veneto with whom I got on very well, so the grading of the food seems to have gone out of the window at this point. Rest assured it was great, that’s all anyone needs to know.

I loved the Blanc de Blanc he matched with the earlier eats (A).

This was unique; Swordfish Toro, Mullumbimby Plum, Pepperberry.

Matched with NV Sparkling (B).

Here we have Grilled Asparagus, Shitake, Kai Lan.

Matched with a 2015 Single Vineyard Semillon (B+).

I opted for the ‘Broth Supplement’ and was very glad I did. The jamon broth, with the additions of grilled marron, mushroom and cos, was fantastic (A).

The Single Vineyard Chardonnay (A) was matured in young oak.

Then King salmon, Salted Kohlrabi and Cuttlefish…

…and a 2007 Semillon (B+).

Rangers Valley Beef Rump with Prawn, Celeriac and Miso.

The 2013 Cuvee D’Elevage Cabernet Sauvignon had a fantastic nose (A) but for me lacked in flavour (B).

Being the glutton that I am, I also added an extra cheese course to the tasting menu and insisted on having Australian cheeses only.

After this a palate cleanser of some kind.

Then a couple of desserts. First came Passionfruit, Hot Chocolate and Miso Ice Cream.

Which was matched with a 2016 Frogmore Creek Iced Riesling (A). For dessert Guillermo gave me the only wines that didn’t come from their vineyard.

Then Milk, Honey, Camomile.

Alongside a 2017 Harewood Estate Riesling.

A final chocolate cornetto sealed the deal.

With a macchiato, the bill came to a rather stunning A$316 but it did include a $90 bottle of the 2012 Chardonnay, the last one in stock, which Guillermo favoured over the 2014 I’d had earlier.

It was a pricey experience but I’d come to enjoy myself and I certainly achieved that. I cycled back to Dunsborough a very happy man.

Stats for the day:

43 km cycled.
2 parrots befriended.
20 kangaroos seen.
11 courses eaten.
9 wines drunk.
1 bed collapsed in.

So a good day then!

Heading further south down the coast next…

Margaret River – day trips to Eagle Bay and Bunkers Bay

Posted in Australia, Bunkers Bay, Eagle Bay, Margaret River, Western Australia with tags , on January 17, 2020 by gannet39

From Dunsborough I cycled to a couple of stunning beaches in the north east of the peninsula. The furthest and most isolated was beautiful Bunkers Bay.

Video here.

From here I cycled to Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse at the very northern tip of the peninsula but I lost my photos from that, sorry.

My map here.

I can also recommend the long beach at Eagle Bay. It’s busier as it’s easier to get too but still really lovely. Both these beaches have a lot of shallows so there’s no need to worry about sharks!

They could also be hiked as part of the Cape to Cape track.

Inland from Eagle Bay are two well known places to eat and drink…

Wise Wine (High Intermediate B+), 237 Eagle Bay Rd,

The entrance to the Wise Wine vineyard is immmediately over the road from the Eagle Bay Brewery below, so you get to choose between beer and wine. The food is much better at Wise though, although not as good as other wineries I visited.

Their boast is that they are the only vineyard whose vines reach as far as the sea. Although I couldn’t quite see that this was actually true with my own eyes, the view from their terrace was still pretty good.

I started off with a round of white wine tastings at the cellar door and concluded that their Pino Grigio was the one for me (B+) despite the A$48 asking price in the restaurant (a separate business apparently).

The Swordfish began things well (B+) but was also a bit pricey at A$44.

I wasn’t that hungry so I went straight to the Australian cheeses which were the best I had on the trip. The Chevre and the Brie both scored A. The service was average but everything else was good so I left happy.

Eagle Bay Brewing Co (Intermediate C), 236 Eagle Bay Rd,

This is the place to come on a hot day when you really need to slake a thirst. It was in the low 30s when I cycled up the hill from Dunsborough. The greeter was pretty gobsmacked to see me as it seems nobody in their right minds would normally cycle up here in the heat!

I was spitting nails so I downed a pint of their excellent Pale Ale (A) in a matter of minutes. I followed up with a tasting paddle of all their beers but none of them could match the PA as far as I was concerned.

A friend tells me that beer was exactly what my body needed after all that exertion, in order to balance my electrolytes.

The dining room is very big, they must be able to cater for a couple of hundred customers at once. The view is okay but not all that imho. Video here.

Despite positive reviews from various sources, I didn’t rate the food here at all. The grilled Barrimundi dumped on my table was passable in flavour (B) but the oily salad it came with wasn’t great (C).

I had to send the following Korean Chicken Wings back they were so bad (D).

And the Marinaded Octopus wasn’t much better (C-). The Iced Chocolate for dessert saved things a bit (B+).

Service was variable but generally okay. A good place to drink Pale Ale but I wouldn’t go back for the food.

So stick to the wineries! Heading west next…

Margaret River – holing up in Dunsborough

Posted in Australia, Dunsborough, Margaret River, Western Australia with tags , , , , on January 15, 2020 by gannet39

When I first came on this trip to Western Australia, I had plans to head up north to Shark Bay to see the dugongs and stromatolites, but I was told it was the wrong time of year (January) as the heat would be unbearable. It’s also a trip that would require several days and a lot of driving, so I decided to leave it for another time and head south to Margaret River instead.

The river has given its name to a town and surrounding tourism region that’s three hours’ drive from Perth. The area is famous for being one of Australia’s best wine regions. I spent a night in an AirBnb just outside the town of Margaret River (see later post) but first I spent seven nights in Dunsborough, a coastal town in the north east of the region. My map of the Margaret River region is here.

Dunsborough is nice enough but not particularly exciting, however it’s an excellent jump off point for visiting the peninsula that constitutes the northern part of the Margaret River region.

It does have its own beach which is nice enough…

…but not as nice as Meelup Beach on the edge of town. Video here.

The Meelup to Castle Rock walk starts near the beach.

It takes you through a pristine nature reserve with some scenic coastal views along the way. Video here.

My planned daily routine was to get up early and cycle to a new beach, and then visit a winery for a long lunch and a gentle cycle home later when it wasn’t so hot (see coming posts).

So my first stop was usually for an early breakfast here…

The Cure (Elementary B), 1/20 Faure Ln, Dunsborough WA 6281

This drive through café in a quirky building was a couple of streets away from my AirBnB. They have a small terrace outside so it’s a nice place to start the day.

They do good coffee and a great smoked salmon bagel (B+).

For a luxurious lunch the best place in town is…

Palmer’s Winery (Advanced A), 1271 Caves Rd,

I came here on a very hot day as it was close to Dunsborough beach. It was recommended by my AirBnB hosts but I wasn’t expecting it to be as good as it was.

The Albany Rock Oysters were the best ones I had on the whole trip (A+), and I’d had oysters at least ten times in the five weeks I was in Oz.

Always up for the local specialities, I tried the Manjiup Marron (local freshwater crayfish) with Seared Asparagus, Potato & Green Onion Salad, Garlic Butter & Fried Capers. Butterflied for easy eating, it had plenty of meat to it but was slightly disappointing in terms of flavour (B).

However their in-house Semillon was the perfect match for the seafood (B+).

The service from my adorable waitress Julie was also the best I had during the whole trip, which is saying something given the high standards I generally encountered in and around Perth.

The Coconut Pannacotta with Mango, Strawberry & ‘Honeycomb’ was fantastic too (A). I want to have a go at making this.

I followed up with an Affogato. I was unsure what sweet wine to have with this so Julie gave me a taster of their Pedro Ximenez (B), an Andalucian favourite of mine, and a port-like wine also of their own making (B+). I went with the latter (B+).

After paying the bill and leaving a handsome tip for Julie (tipping is not required in Oz, unless they really deserve it, which is maybe why the service is generally so good), I followed her directions and stumbled through the rows of display vines to their cellar door…

…to try a few of their range of reds, courtesy (?) of the taciturn cellar guardian.

They also process the grapes of a nearby vineyard under the name of Purebred which impressed me too. I left with a bottle of 2014 Purebred Malbec (€39) and one of the Port from Palmer’s private collection (€25) that I’d had with the Affogato. Fortunately home was only a short cycle ride after this!

I liked Palmers wines so much that I came back a second time with Karen and went through the whites, finally purchasing a mixed box of six which sustained us for the following week. They were the 2016 Palmer SB, the 2014 Palmer Semillon, the 2015 Purebred Chardonnay MW, the 2015 Purebred Chardonnay B.D. and the only red; the 2014 Purebred Malbec MW again. Total cost A$157.

The old boy was a bit more friendly this time as I was a returnee. I learned from him that Palmers wines are not easily purchasable as there’s not much money in involving middle men, so you have to visit to get their good stuff. It’s a must in my book, do go. You can recognise the turn off for the cellar door by this old sports car parked on the grass verge by the main road.

There are a few other places in the centre of town that are okay for everyday eating and drinking.

The Dunsborough (Intermediate B), 536 Naturaliste Terrace, Dunsborough WA 6281

The big local pub, popular with families. Big terrace outside.

Occy’s (Low Intermediate B), 12/34 Dunn Bay Road,

A very popular wine bar that sells food. I can recommend the fried squid (B+).

Oh Delhi (Low Intermediate B+), 9/34 Dunn Bay Road,

Good Indian food. I enjoyed the Lamb Chops, Tawa Veg Curry, Raita and Butter Naan (all B+).

Little Saigon (Low Intermediate C+), Shop Seven/34 Dunn Bay Road,

I had a great Beef Pho for lunch but I wasn’t impressed by the Fresh Rolls, Chicken Skewers and Barrimundi Fillet I had in the evening (all C).

So now I had a base camp, I could do a few day trips…

Perth – Eating and Drinking at Swanbourne Beach

Posted in Australia, Perth, Swanbourne, Western Australia with tags on January 14, 2020 by gannet39

Swanbourne is the next beach up from Cottesloe to the north. It’s a continuation of the same beach but as it’s at the far northern end which is relatively isolated and windy, so the only people you’ll meet here are kite surfers or naturists and gay men posing on top of sand dunes in the buff!

My reason for coming here though was this great beach restaurant…

The Shorehouse (High Intermediate A), 278 Marine Parade,

The Shorehouse has a One Hat rating from the 2018 Good Food Guide. I love the terrace out front which has a great view of the sea and the sunsets although it can get a bit cold later in the evening, so you should bring warm coverings and some mosquito spray.

I enjoyed it so much I came twice, once for lunch and the second time to celebrate my brother’s birthday meal.

On both visits I kicked off with a G&T of which there are six on the menu to choose from. The Bangkok Hilton did it for me (B+) but the Sipsmith Cucumber less so (B-).

I was starving on my first visit so I rattled through four courses, beginning with some decent, very knobbly oysters (B).

The Evoi Sauvignon Blanc went well with them (B).

The following Watermelon Salad with Seared Nectrines, Heirloom Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Basil with Organic Honey absolutely blew me away (A+). Must have a bash at this at home.

For the pasta course the Linguine with Blue Crab and Prawns was also very good (B+).

And I couldn’t fault the final Panna Cotta (A).

Six of us sat down for Dan’s birthday a week later and I was too busy talking to score or take pictures of the food but I enjoyed the Burrata Salad (B+), even though it wasn’t my idea of burrata, it was just very fresh mozzarella with no cream inside.

Next the Tiger Prawns, cooked on a Josper charcoal grill, were good but I’ve had better (B).

Finally the cheesecake was okay except that it was lacking a base which is usually the most tasty part (B).

To drink, the Silkman Semillon was okay but lacked fragrance (C+) despite being from a region known for this aromatic grape. The Cullen SBS was better (B+) and I enjoyed the sweet Juniper Estate (B) with dessert.

Everyone else seemed to enjoy their food so I have no hesitation in recommending The Shorehouse as one of my favourite spots in Perth.

Perth – Eating and Drinking at Cottesloe Beach

Posted in Australia, Cottesloe, Perth, Western Australia with tags , , , , on January 13, 2020 by gannet39

Cottlesloe Beach is one of the most popular and beautiful beaches in Perth. Video here.

It’s well located between Perth and Fremantle. My map here.

My brother and I rented an AirBnB in neighbouring Mosman Park (see previous post) just so we could come here every day. As you can see from the stunning houses along Marine Parade, it must be very expensive to stay in the area unless you have the wherewithal.

Most days we would do the twenty minute walk to start the day with brunch on the terrace at this lovely Art Deco cafe…

John Street Café (Intermediate A), 37 John Street,

As well as their traditional ‘John’s Lot’ fry up (A)…

…I can recommend the San Daniele prosciutto (preferable to Parma for me) with rocket, goat’s curd, poached eggs, ciabatta and caramelised fig (A)…

…and the Bruschetta with smashed avocado, tomato medley, Spanish onions, basil, garlic and a field mushroom (B+).

For lunch you could come here…

Indiana Tearooms (Intermediate B), 99 Marine Parade,

The tearooms are in the iconic Art Deco building that overlooks the most popular part of Cottesloe beach.

It’s a good spot to sit and watch the goings on.

However I didn’t rate their oysters (C-) which I thought were very metallic and the least favourite of the many I tried in Perth. The bar seems a bit lacking too.

I’d still go again though, once I’ve worked through the menu at this place over the road…

Il Lido (High Intermediate B+), 88 Marine Parade,

Usually I’d think twice about eating Italian food outside of Italy, unless I cook it myself, but I’d heard good things about Il Lido so I gave it a shot.

I liked it so much I came twice; once as a lone diner for lunch and again with my brother for dinner. The food is very good but the wine is overpriced I think.

On my first visit I begain with the Arancini of the day which were great (B+).

The menu suggested a wine match of imported Inama Soave (B) without saying how much it would cost. I nearly choked when the bill came and it was A$17! (About £10).

The Fremantle Octopus with chickpeas, garlic, shallots, cherry tomatoes and lemon on bruschetta was a winner as well (B+).

With a glass of Bisleri Chinotto (a fizzy bitter orange drink) and a macchiato coffee, the bill was just shy of A$70, so a bit excessive to my mind.

With my brother on another night I had the excellent Polpetti meatballs (A)…

…and the less impressive Mozzarella (B) which came with a char-grilled tomato (C).

We shared the Lasagne which was great (A)…

…and finished with the Chocolate Truffle (B+) which was more reasonably priced at €5.

The Whicher Ridge ‘Elevation’ Cab Sauv was okay (B).

One thing I really like about this place was the soundtrack which had obviously been chosen by a person with great musical knowledge. There’s not many restaurants where you’ll hear Fela Kuti’s ‘Water Got No Enemy’.

Amberjacks (Elementary B), 28/94 Marine Parade,

This is a decent fish and chip shop on the seafront for when you’re trying to reign in your budget, if you consider paying £10 ‘reigning it in’. The chip portions are huge (go small) but they’re a bit stingy with the fish portions.

I regretted getting the grilled mackerel (C) as my brother’s battered hake was much better (B). The only chippy I’ve been to where the vinegar comes in a spray gun!

Boatshed, 40 Jarrad St,

A very posh deli off the Stirling Highway on the way to the beach. It’s nice to go and have a drool even if you don’t intend to buy any of it. There are often lots of free samples to graze on.

Wish I had the money to live in Cottesloe!

Off to Swanbourne now, the next beach up to the north…

Perth – chilling in Mosman Park

Posted in Australia, Mosman Park, Perth, Western Australia with tags , , , , on January 12, 2020 by gannet39

Mosman Park is a fairly affluent residential area that’s well positioned for getting into central Perth to the north (45 mins by bus, less by train) and Freo to the south (20 mins on the bus).

My brother and I rented an AirBnB here for about £50 a night. Our main reason for staying in the area was to go to nearby Cottesloe beach (see next post) which was just 20 mins walk due west.

My map here.

Foodwise there are a few decent places…

Good Things (Intermediate B+), 28 Wellington Street,

A decent breakfast spot. I liked the ‘The Hulk’; smashed advocado with peas, mint, pickled red onion, seeds, sesame, whipped feta and chili on toast (B+). The smoothies are great too (A).

Nasi Lemak Korner (Intermediate B), 626 Stirling Highway,

A decent Malaysian place. The mixed starter plate was huge, and pretty good (B).

The Beef Rendang is their star dish by all accounts. We really enjoyed it (B+) with my bro going as far as to say that it was better than the ones he’d recently had in Indonesia (which has a lot of culinary crossover with Malaysia).

However I wasn’t too impressed by the Rotis which were a bit greasy (C+).

Tsunami (Intermediate B), 18 Glyde Street,

Opened by one of the chefs from Nobu, the most famous Japanese restaurant in Perth. The Sukiyaki was alright (B-) as were the Lamb Ribs (B) and the voyager Sauvignon Blanc (B).

One Sunday we didn’t have a lot to do so we went to the Chidley Reserve and had a pleasant walk next to the Swan River.

You’re surrounded by nature all along the path. Amazing to think this is all reclaimed industrial land.

After our walk we went on a tour of the Leighton Battery in Mosman Park.

It’s a WW2 gun instillation which was built to resist an attack from the Japanese that never happened.

It has since been preserved and renovated by volunteers. It’s quite atmospheric wandering the underground tunnels and imagining what it must have been like to serve there.

The battery is only open to the public on Sundays.

So nothing terribly exciting about Mosman Park but it is well placed for Cottesloe, more of which next.

Perth – a trip to Rottnest island

Posted in Australia, Rottnest Island, Western Australia with tags , , , on January 11, 2020 by gannet39

You can’t really go to Perth and not visit Rottnest Island This beautiful craggy island of rocks and white sand beaches is a protected nature reserve and all round national treasure.

It’s most famous inhabitants are the quokkas, a small marsupial that doesn’t exist anywhere else. A passing Dutch sea captain thought they were large rats, hence the name of the island.

After a hearty shakshuka breakfast at Kazoomie’s (see previous post) we boarded the ferry to “Rotto”. It takes about 25 minutes from Fremantle, or 90 minutes from Perth.

I was with my brother Dan and our friend Nicky who were right at home.

You can hire snorkelling gear from the place next to Kazoomie’s, or on the island. You can also rent bikes on the island, or catch the Island Explorer bus that circulates the island at regular intervals. We had a set of snorkelling gear with us and got tickets for the bus.

There are many beaches you could go to, but on our friend Karen’s recommendation we went to Little Salmon Bay.

It’s one of the smaller beaches so less crowded. The water was beautiful and clear. Videos here and a bit farther up the coast here.

After a couple of hours there we got a bus to the westernmost tip of the island to the Cape Vlamingh Viewing Platform. We got some good views over the water from there. Video here.

And from there it was a short walk to another viewing platform at West End. Video here.

Then another short hop on the bus to the Cathedral Rocks Viewing Platform to see the New Zealand fur seals, another highlight of the trip.

Looks like we got a bit closer than we were supposed to but we were on a small ledge safely above them. They can be a bit aggressive if you approach them apparently.

Hard to see in these pics but the seals were swimming on the spot with one flipper raised vertically out of the water, but you can see it in this video I took. The practice is known as sailing. I looked it up later and it seems that it helps them to regulate their body temperature in both hot and cold conditions.

Then it was back on the Island Explorer to Thompson Bay, where we’d first come ashore. By now we were feeling the need to get fed and watered. There are a couple of places you could eat but this place seemed the obvious choice…

Hotel Rottnest (Intermediate B), 1 Bedford Ave, Rottnest Island,

This is a classic Aussie pub with a big outdoor terrace looking out over the bay. We hunkered down and got the sherberts in while we waited for our ferry home.

The sea air had given me quite an appetite and I had two rounds of oysters as well as a burger and chips and a couple of jugs of Little Creatures pale ale. The food was okay but nothing special, just decent local pub grub (B/C+).

Occasionally we felt something brush against our legs under the table.

It was the quokkas on the lookout for crumbs, completely unphased by the busy pub terrace and loud music. Video here.

Peter the Peacock was also on the lookout for any leftover tidbits that we weren’t keeping an eye on.

This was a truly special day, a wonderful experience that I’d urge anyone to have. I’ll be back at the first opportunity.

Fremantle – food & drink in the centre

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, West Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , , , , , , , on January 10, 2020 by gannet39

West Fremantle is the city centre, the location of the original Swan River settlement. See separate posts for North Fremantle food and art and architecture. Here’s my Google map here.

Fremantle has some fantastic places to eat, these are my favourites:

Kazoomie’s(High Elementary A), E Shed Markets, E2 Peter Hughes Dr,

Located right next to the ferry quay, this is the perfect place to fuel up before heading to Rottnest Island (see next post).

Kazoomie’s specialise in North African and Spanish food but the star of the show is the Shakshuka; a traditional Mediterranean breakfast made with eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce containing chili, garlic, cumin and nutmeg.

They have a few choices but I loved the Lamb Red Shakshuka made with Kadaif, thinly sliced filo noodles and pita on the side. This dish has won numerous local awards including ‘Best Breakfast in Perth 2016’.

The Green Shakshuka with is a winner too. The eggs are poached with turmeric and garlic herb buttered spinach. There’s marinated eggplant and cows feta with the pita.

Shakshukas are very popular in Israel I later discovered which makes sense as chef owner Nimrod Kazoom is of Jewish origin. Here’s fellow Israeli, Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe.

Moore & Moore Cafe (Intermediate A), W D Moore & Co Warehouse, Building 46/42 Henry St,

Moore & Moore is a very laid back breakfast spot. I went three times because I liked it so much. There’s lots of shaded seating out in the back yard.

I can recommend The Avocado; avocado with fresh cherry tomatoes, goats cheese, organic tomato pesto, five seed rye and herb salad. Simple but very effective (A).

I also liked their Pulled Beef Burger; grass-fed organic beef tossed in aioli and served with pickled daikon, caramelised horse radish and onion (B+).

It’s a contemporary art gallery as well as a café. This amazing photo was on display when I went.

Bread in Common (High Intermediate A), 43 Pakenham St,

Possibly the best place to eat in the centre of Fremantle, certainly in terms of its decor. I didn’t score all the dishes highly but there were many that I did.

I came twice; once by myself for lunch and again with my brother in the evening.

For lunch I had the Oysters which were decent (B+)…

…followed by the Barrimundi (a popular local white fish) in a tomato and olive sauce which I really enjoyed (B+).

The Vermentino, a favourite wine when I was in Sardinia and Genoa, was a bit of a flavourless disappointment sadly (C+).

Then to finish a flight of cheeses including Australian Cambray Ashover and Cambray Gouda, both from Nannup in the south west. Also a Gorgonzola from Lombardy in Italy.

This session wasn’t cheap at A$134 for one but the second time Dan and I only spent A$172 between us.

We kicked off with a bowl of olives (B+) and some of their own bread (Rye, Olive Ciabatta, Sourdough and Black Brea) which although baked on the premises, I really wasn’t impressed by (C).

We also shared a plate of San Daniele, my favourite Italian cured ham (A).

Dan had the excellent Beef Brisket (A)…

and I had Kangaroo once more, although it wasn’t quite as good as the one I’d had at Bib & Tucker (B).

We had the cheeses again to finish. The Frankland Shiraz went well with all this (B) but it was a bit pricey at A$65 for what it was.

So not cheap but definitely a good spot to check out.

Little Creatures Brewery (Intermediate B+), 42 Mews Rd,

As luck would have it, the brewery for my favourite Australian beer is located in Perth.

It’s an impressive space that has been converted to be a huge bar and restaurant. Not tried the food but I’m told that it’s okay.

I came a couple of times for a cooling pint. Temperatures were in the mid thirties when I was there.

You can sit outside and look out over the harbour as well. The boat garage is right next door.

The ferris wheel over the road has good views too I believe.

Manuka Woodfire Kitchen (Intermediate B+), 134 High St,

I’d heard good things about this place from a staff member at Propeller so I decided to eat here with my bro on our last night in Perth.

We had the set menu for A$110 which was good but not amazing.

Proceedings commenced with a bowl of hot olives of various kinds (B+).

A bottle of Snake & Herring Riesling (B-) and a Negroni (B) added another A$75 to the total.

Char-grilled Honey Bugs which are a kind of slipper lobster I understand.

They taste a lot better than they look!

A good place, I’d go again.

And some stuff for the shopping basket…

The Fremantle Markets, located in a beautiful heritage building on the corner of South Terrace and Henderson Street, are definitely worth a visit.

Especially for this stall…

The Honeycake Shop (Elementary A), Fremantle Markets, 40/74 South Terrace,

I’d never come across honeycake before I had it here and as I’m a big honey fan, it totally blew my mind (A+). The prep must take forever but the results are amazing.

I believe it’s from Russia originally where it’s known as Medevik.

And elsewhere…

Kakulas Sister (Intermediate A), 29/31 Market St,

This is a great little deli which I’d definitely shop in all the time if I lived here. Instead I picked up two honeys to smuggle home; one from WA and the other from Tasmania. The latter ranks as my second most favourite honey ever! )The first was Bangladeshi mangrove forest honey which was freshly harvested for me and would take some beating). According to the helpful shop assistant, anything from Tassy is going to be good.

So heaps of great things to eat in Fremantle!

Off to Rottnest next…

Fremantle – street art

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , , on January 9, 2020 by gannet39

Fremantle is a hotbed for street art and you’ll find it dotted about everywhere.

My favourite is Kraken by Sheffield artist Phlegm but then I’m biased.

But there are lots of other great paintings.

In the previous post you may have wondered about the stripes of yellow paint across some of the buildings.

It all makes sense when you stand on the balcony of the Roundhouse and look down the High Street to the town hall at the end.

The work is called called Arcs d’Ellipses by Felice Varini. Nice idea but it didn’t end very well unfortunately.

Many of the paintings above and statues below can be found around the Fishing Boat Harbour which is a pleasant area to walk around. The statues show the jobs locals did in the harbour, but theres also one of local boy Bon Scott, the singer from AC/DC, which many people like to get a photo with.

Not sure what this chap is about though…

Food and drink next!

Fremantle – architecture old and new

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , on January 8, 2020 by gannet39

Fremantle, Perth’s port, has its own thing going on. Perched on the sea, on the southern bank of the Swan River, it’s a city to itself with its own personality. Just like its nickname, ‘Freo’ feels hipper and more chilled than central Perth. Some of this vibe is down to its architecture.

Unlike central Perth, lots of old colonial buildings remain, like these lovely old hotels.

As well as lots of other public buildings and offices.

Love these quirky residential numbers.

Not sure what you’d call this.

There are some nice bits of Deco.

Love the brutalist Port Authority building.

And this 80s looking fire station.

And there’s the odd modern shock squeezed in between the old stuff.

Perth’s oldest public building is here as well. The Roundhouse is the original gaol that preceded Fremantle Prison. It overlooks the titchy Bathers Beach where I spent the occasional day sunning myself.

To get an idea of what the area looked like in 1831, look at this painting by Jane Eliza Currie called ‘Panorama of the Swan River Settlement’.

We also did a tour of Fremantle prison which was an interesting experience…

And then there’s the street art…

Fremantle – chilling by the river in Bicton

Posted in Australia, Bicton, Fremantle, Western Australia with tags on January 7, 2020 by gannet39

My friend Karen lives in Bicton, a residential neighbourhood a short bus ride from Fremantle’s centre.

In the evenings a lot of people go to relax at Bicton Baths, a chilled spot by the Swan river. You can swim if you like, or do as we did and have a little picnic.

We grabbed some fish & chips from Bicton Fish & Burger Grill at 39B Bristol Avenue.

I tried the special, Red Emperador, which was a new fish for me (B+). Other fish on the menu were hake, pink and goldband snapper, Spanish mackerel and shark! The chips were okay (C) but Karen reckons chippies are generally better back in the UK.

When it comes to picnicing, she has all the bases covered.

The best Australian fizz is from Tasmania apparently.

While I was in Bicton, we celebrated her eldest son Tom’s thirtieth birthday.

I helped out by making five big curries to feed the guests.

And not a singler turmeric stain on my white t-shirt, happy days! 🙂 x

Perth – Eating and Drinking in North Fremantle

Posted in Australia, Fremantle, North Fremantle, Western Australia with tags , , on January 6, 2020 by gannet39

After Northbridge I moved downstream to Freo (Fremantle), Perth’s port at the mouth of the Swan River. Going further north along the coastline (the beach is pretty much continuous) you come to Cottesloe and Mosman Park which I’ve given separate posts. West Fremantle, the centre of town, also has it’s own post. My map is here.

I’d come to visit my dear friend Karen, a Derbyshire ex-pat and longstanding Freo resident, and she chose this venue to celebrate our reunion…

She took me to this place on Leighton Beach in North Fremantle, the first of many beach restaurants in beautiful locations overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Bib and Tucker (High Intermediate B+), 18 Leighton Beach Boulevard, North Fremantle,

It’s owned by Eamon Sullivan, an Olympic medal winning swimmer, so quality should be assumed. Snag a spot on the terrace if you can, especially in winter as it’s a good place to watch the sunset apparently. It was a bright sunny day in January when we went though so I had to splash on the sun cream.

The celebrations were intense so I don’t remember much except that it was all very good! The ‘Perfect Day’ Sauvignon Blanc defintitely fitted the mood.

The food was lovely. This was the Charcoal-roasted West Australian Octopus with Fennel, Apple, Smoked Almonds and ‘Crispy Bits’. Roast octopi are one of the finer things in life I think (A).

And you can’t go wrong with Saltcod Fritters with Lemon Aioli (A).

I had my first taste of Kangaroo here. I can tell you it’s pretty good when served medium-rare (B+).

There can’t be many countries that eat their national symbols. The only other example I can think of is the Welsh and their leeks.

The only let down was the overfried Chorizo (C) but then I have been spoiled by my trips to Spain.

Some more of the excellent local white wine made everything right though.

On another evening, Karen took me to another place nearby…

Propeller (High Intermediate A), 222 Queen Victoria St,

This Lebanese restaurant is one of her favourite spots and rightly so as the food is excellent.

Again I don’t remember the details as I was too busy chatting. Also my pics didn’t come out well unfortunately as it was quite dark out on the terrace.

I do remember we began with a Negroni and a Turkish Delight Martini which Karen loved.

To eat we had the cheaper of the two tasting menus at A$45 a head, as opposed to A$65, to suit our appetites. It was more than enough.

We started with some Salt Roasted Sunflower and Pumpkin seeds and a mixed bowl of olives including Gordal, Kalamata, Manazanilla and Liguria varieties.

Then scallops with white bean puree and chilli followed by Freo Sardine with Broccolini, Pine Nuts and Currants.

Rather than get a whole bottle we had two glasses of Ocean Eight Pinot Gris with the earlier courses.

Next I think Cemen Lamb with Green Beans, Raisins and Yoghurt. Cemen is a paste of ground fenugreek seeds, Turkish red pepper and mashed garlic which is used to coat the meat.

We drank a couple of glasses of Spinifex Grenache with the meat.

With a glass of PX and another of Rockford Cane Cut to go with the desserts (nice but forgotten), the final bill was a very reasonable A$200.

Mrs Brown (Intermediate B+), 241 Queen Victoria St,

After eating at Propellor we piled over the road to this wine bar which is Karen’s after work local. It was a bit quiet as it was the night before Australia Day but it’s usually much busier. All the same, it was lovely to have a quiet nightcap watching the blossom falling from the tree in the back yard.

I tried my first and only Australian Brandy here, the Saint Agnes five-year-old VSOP.

It was drinkable but brandy is not one of the Aussies fortes unfortunately (C). They have plenty more to make up for it though.

Over to Bicton, Karen’s neighbourhood next!

Perth – eating and drinking in Northbridge

Posted in Australia, Northbridge, Perth, Western Australia with tags , , , , , , , , , on January 5, 2020 by gannet39

Northbridge is the coolest residential district in central Perth according to my research so I got an AirBnB there for a week. You’ll find some of the more avante garde restaurants here and it also serves as the city’s Asiatown with lots of Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese businesses. There are lots of great boozers too. Here are some of my favourites, there are lots more on my map.

Lot Twenty (Intermediate B+), 198-206 William Street,

This gastro pub is a nice little spot. I’d like to come back try some other things off the menu but I was brought here by the promise of great oysters from Jerry Fraser the (self-dubbed?) ‘King of Oysters’. He’s at different pubs on different days so check his movements on He’s a nice chap and very happy to chat.

It was to be my first experience of local oysters and I wanted to learn as much as I could from him. For $25 he gave me a mixed half dozen of Rocks (not the same as UK Rocks apparently) and Pacifics which, like all Aussie oysters are farmed.

The Rocks won hands down (B+) being more creamy and salty than the Pacifics, although they were pretty decent too (B).

I really wanted to try the local Angasi mud oysters but these are only available in the autumn apparently.

It was fun listening to Jerry talk about his time working in oyster bars in London. His personal opinion is that Scottish Lock Fyne oysters are the best in the world which is something I need to test for myself.

Shadow Wine Bar (Intermediate B+), 214 William Street,

This is a great place to try West Australian wines although with full priced servings of only 100ml, I could only justify one visit.

I had the Spagehettini with crab, tomatoes and the tiniest capers I’ve ever seen (B+).

The Woodlands Wilyabrup Valley Chardonnay was truly excellent (A) but I felt the pours were a bit stingy at $10 per 100ml glass. The total bill came to $54. Not cheap but I’d definitely go again.

Okay Vietnamese (Intermediate B+), 6/457 William Street

There are many Vietnamese restaurants in the neighbourhood but this is defintely a good one.

I enjoyed their raw beef Pho Tai soup (B+). Wish I’d had time to try the rest of the menu.

Ichiraku (Elementary B), 43 Monger Street,

There are better ramen-ya bars in the CBD but this is the best in the neighbourhood. I had the ‘Signature Hakata Tonkotsu Ramen’ and a rack of five Gyoza dumplings (both B) for A$25.50.

I wouldn’t bother with Oceans (C) at 62 Roe Street. It’s fine at a pinch but their broth doesn’t cut it for me.

The Re Store (High Intermediate A), 72 Lake Street,

This big old deli is great for getting stuff to take home, especially wine. I’m sure the café is good too.

They have an even bigger and better branch at 231 Oxford Street in Leederville.


Brass Monkey Hotel (Intermediate A), William Street corner of James Street,

A nice old pub with lots of different bars with areas for playing pool, watching sports, sitting outside or being quiet. It’s centrally located on the city side of the neighbourhood.

The Brisbane Hotel (Intermediate A), 292 Beaufort Street,

The spacious beer garden often features good house music DJs from abroad. Think this might be one to avoid though.

The Standard (Intermediate B+), 28 Roe Street,

Their terrace is a great place to watch the sun go down. Food looks good.

Picabar (Intermediate B+), 51 James Street,

A popular drinking spot near the Cultural Centre where a lot of people can sit outside under a big tree.

Hyde Park on William Street is a nice place for a leafy walk. Lots of interesting birds and plants, and jacaranda in spring.

So lots to eat and drink, see and do in Northbridge! It’s such a great neighbourhood, wish I could have stayed longer.

Off to Freo next!

Perth – choice breakfast spots in the centre

Posted in Australia, Central Business District, Leederville, Northbridge, Perth, West Perth, Western Australia with tags , , , , , on January 4, 2020 by gannet39

I spent my first week in Perth staying in an AirBnb in Northbridge which is the most happening neighbourhood in the centre. Every morning I’d walk to a new breakfast spot. Aussie breakfast cafes rule and the ones within walking distance were no exception. Here are a few of my favourites…

The Little Bird Cafe (Intermediate A), 100 Lake St, Northbridge,

This was my local spot which I visited a few times. Nice staff, pleasant outdoor seating, good coffee, great food.

I adore their Acai Bowl with seasonal fruit, ‘coastal crunch’ granola and coconut flakes overlaying an acai, orange and blueberry smoothie (A+). Such a great way to start the day.

The Bird Benedict with bacon, poached eggs and hollandaise sauce on sourdough with fresh spinach was another good one (A).

The classic Brekky Brushcetta with fresh tomatoes, smashed lemon and mint avocado, bacon, poached egg and feta on sourdough can’t fail (A).

These were all around the $20 to $18 mark. If you’re staying in central Perth, my advice is to get a place near here!

Leederville, another central neighbourhood with a few good eateries and shops, is a thirty minute walk from Northbridge.

Sayers (Intermediate B+), 224 Carr Place, Leederville,

I liked their Potato Rosti with poached eggs, bacon, onion jam and ‘lemon-scented’ wilted spinach (B+).

Their chocolate-banana bread with honey butter is also great for a bit of indulgence (B+).

While you’re in Leederville you should check out Restore at 231 Oxford Street This deli is a treasure store of ingredients and wine. Dare say the cafe is good too.

West Perth is another central neighbourhood between Leederville and Northbridge…

West End Deli (Intermediate B+), 95 Carr St, West Perth,

A nice neighbourhood spot. I had poached eggs with dukkah, smashed avocado with mint and peas, and seared kale. All very healthy and simple but totally delicioius (A).

Dukkah by the way is an Egyptian spice and nut mix that is used around the Arab middle east. It has really taken off in Australia due to immigration from the Lebanon and other Arab countries, and has been further popularised by cooking shows.

Wish I’d been here more than once to try the rest of the menu.

And in the CBD, a previously mentioned favourite…

Toastface Grillah (Elementary B+), on Grand Lane, a side alley off Wellington St near the corner with Barrack St,

Top marks for the name! They serve great cheese toasties and decent coffee. See my Perth CBD food post for more info.

Petition (Intermediate B), State Buildings, St Georges Terrace & Barrack St,

A busy lawyers hangout in the CBD. I had their wonderful Poached Salmon, Smoked Egg Gribiche, Rocket and Ricotta Salata (B+).

I miss these breakfasts so much! They’re a major reason I to go to Australia!

Perth – great places to eat in the CBD

Posted in Australia, Central Business District, Perth, Western Australia with tags , , , , , , on January 3, 2020 by gannet39

There are heaps of places to eat in the CBD, from basic to high end. These are my favourites, all scoring high marks on my scale of A to D, and a couple to be wary of at the bottom (Cs). There’s a gem for every meal of the day so you could have a toastie for breakfast, ramen for lunch and a top notch Thai or Italian with great Aussie wines for your evening meal, it’s all there.

My map here.

Toastface Grillah (Elementary A), Wellington St & Barrack St, Perth,

I love this little place, for its name, attitude and grungy location down a back alley, and the coffee and toasties are pretty good too (A/B+).

I can recommend the ‘Ol’Faithful’; smoked ham, cheddar, sweet pickle relish on grain.

There are lots of other interesting combos with great names like the ‘Notorius B.A,G’; bacon, apple, gouda!

Nao Ramen (Intermediate A-), 191/580 Hay St,

I know my ramen, and this was the best ramen-ya of the four that I tried in Perth. The all-important broth is deep and rich (B+) and their cha-siu pork is some of the best I’ve ever tasted (A).

You can choose from four kinds each of flavoured broths and noodles. I had the Miso and I came back a second time and had their Spicy Miso too (both B+). Plain egg noodles every time for me.

Their Pork Gyoza are very dense which might be to some people’s taste but I like them to be just a little more delicate (B).

Hikaru Ramen (Elementary B+), 4b/50 St Georges Terrace,

Hikaru is another very good ramen place that’s worth trying, but it comes in second to Nao.

The Aviary (Intermediate B), Level 1/140 William St,

This is a good spot if you’re looking for a beer terrace to escape the afternoon heat or watch the sunset. Slightly more expensive than other pubs I think but a good location.

Lalla Rookh (High Intermediate A), 32/77 St Georges Terrace,

This atmospheric basement restaurant off Perth’s main drag was awarded One Hat by the 2018 Good Food Guide, so I felt had to try it and I was very glad I did.

It serves very authentic Italian food at not unreasonable prices and I also learned a lot about local food and wine from the accommodating staff.

I had the tasting menu; ‘Il Capo’ for A$68. With an additional wine matching the total came to a hefty €162. Not cheap, but it was good value for what I got.

The Beef, Stracciatella and Bottarga was a bit salty but still very good (A). The pic was blurred sorry.

I had this with the first of many good local wines; a Lowboi Riesling which was bone dry with very little nose (B+).

The Kingfish Crudo with pink peppercorns, grapefruit and thyme was nice (B).

I really liked the oaky Vasse Felix Chardonnay matched with it (B+).

I forgot to take a pic of the delicious Marinated Ox Tongue Marjoram and Lemon (B+), sorry.

The Blind Corner Field Blend Shiraz wasn’t bad (B).

Best of the food was the Paccheri Pasta with Smoked Pancetta, Ox Tongue and Pine Nuts which was absolutely killer (A+).

The Empirica Syrah with it was just okay (B).

Food-wise I also loved the Quail with Beetroot, Pistachio, Orange and Chevre (A).

Thankfully I had a good red with it, the Hay Shed Cabernet Sauvignon (B+).

For dessert just a canolo…

… and a glass of a local sweet liqueur called Talijancich Verdelho which was fantastic (A).

I liked it so much that I went back to their shop (entrance just around the corner on Sherwood Court) and bought a bottle for $40. Absolute nectar.

I was also treated to a shot of Limburners Honey Liqueur (A).

As a finale the waitress offered up the information that at a recent wine festival in Perth, all the wine spat out by the tasters was distilled and made into a spirit called ‘Kissing A Stranger’. I’m actually quite glad I missed out that one!

Long Chim (High Intermediate A-), corner of St Georges Terrace and Barrack,

Long Chim, meaning ‘come try’, sells authentic Thai street cuisine. The food is very good, but it sure ain’t cheap, by UK let alone Bangkok standards. Chef owner David Thompson has managed to garner quite a reputation and it’s another One Hat winner in the 2018 Good Food Guide.

It’s located in the basement of the 19th century Treasury where the government records and archives were once stored.

There’s a nice outdoor area…

… featuring quirky décor and cartoonish street art.

The Mandarin & Lemongrass Negroni was an interesting twist on the classic (B+).

I was by myself and not particularly hungry, so I couldn’t justify splashing out. In the end I made the very unimaginative selection of Pad Thai, which was excellent (A) and made with a good variety of ingredients. I particularly loved the tiny chunks of tofu which I’d not had in Pad Thai before.

The Tirra Lirra white blend was nice (B).

I would go back to Long Chim if I was with a group. It’s very famous and popular so booking in the evenings is definitely recommended.

Wildflower on the roof of the same building is also very well reputed but I saved it for next time.

A couple of places I went to weren’t that great.

This well-known Vietnamese cafe was a let down…

Mama Tran (High Elementary C), 6/36-40 Milligan St,

Despite having a rep for being the best in town I thought their pre-packaged Banh Mi (pork sandwich) was tasteless. I’m sure their pho is fine. It’s cheap and very busy at lunchtimes, closed in the evening.
Another one to be wary of despite the great location on the waterfront…

Oyster Bar (Intermediate C), Level 1/&2 Geoffrey Bolton Av, Elizabeth Quay,

Not particularly keen on this place even though oysters were half price on the night I went. I’ve had better oysters elsewhere (see my Northbridge posts). We sat on the top floor to catch the view but it got a bit windy. Service wasn’t great and the other food was mediocre.

However I would go again just for their Bloody Mary Oyster Shot which is a very fine concept indeed!

More good food in neighbouring Northbridge next!

Perth – Street Art in the CBD

Posted in Australia, Central Business District, Perth, Western Australia on January 2, 2020 by gannet39

Perth has a big reputation for street art and many local businesses have embraced the form to decorate their buildings, so you’ll see it everywhere. However the main hot spot is around Wolf Lane in the CBD, where I took most of these pictures on my visit in 2017. Two years late I know but hey, I’ve been busy 😀 My map with Wolf Lane on is here. I’m going to dedicate a seperate post to street art in Fremantle which has its own thing going on.

Click on the pics to expand.

Perth – Urban Architecture Old and New

Posted in Australia, Central Business District, Perth, Western Australia on January 1, 2020 by gannet39

In January 2018 I had a few weeks holiday in Western Australia. It was my second time in Oz (see my New South Wales posts) but my first time over this side of the country. Although I originally had plans to experience the natural beauty of the northern part of the state, I instead decided to leave it until my next visit and, except for a couple of weeks in the Margaret River wine region in the near south, keep things fairly urban. Seventy nine percent of the state’s population lives in Perth, the capital, and city boy that I am, this is where I most wanted to be.

You’ll find my state map here and my Perth map here.

One of the best places to get a view of Perth’s skyline is from Kings Park which has an elevated view over the city, video here.

Many people enjoy coming here around dusk to watch the sun go down. Video here.

Another good view of the CBD can be had down at Elizabeths Quay on the waterfront. Video here.

The quay is also very atmospheric at night. Video here.

The whole area was redeveloped in 2016 so it’s a good area to walk around whatever the time of day.

Perth was built with mining money. One of the highest towers belongs to mining behmoth Rio Tinto, coincidentally named after one of the rivers mentioned in my previous posts on Huelva in Spain. You’ll find a brief history here.

To be honest the skyscrapers don’t have much going for them and the Rio Tinto HQ is no exception.

Local architects are getting quite good at the smaller scale modern stuff though. The City of Perth Library and History Centre is a nice example of the contemporary timber style of modernist architecture.

If nothing else at least it’s a good place to cool down on a hot day!

My favourite building is just a short distance away at 27 St Georges Terrace. Council House is a beautiful (to me) brutalist monster by day…

…and is now an even lovelier glowing rainbow by night. What a great way to show off the design.

You get the full effect from the video here.

Another modern building I quite liked was the newly completed Children’s Hospital.

And there were a few other post-modern bits and pieces dotted around that caught my eye.

There’s the odd nice bit of Deco.

They are quite good at integrating old colonial era facades with modern buildings.

The entrance to the Cadogan Song School next to the Cathedral is another example.

Plenty of colonial buildings have been lovingly preserved alongside their modern counterparts.

So, lots of architerctural eye candy around Perth. Street art next…

Huelva – a walk by the river

Posted in Andalusia, Huelva, Huelva Province, Spain on May 29, 2019 by gannet39

The starting point for this walk is the Muelle de Riotinto, down on the bank of the Odiel River. The long pier was built by Rio Tinto in 1874 for loading ore onto ocean going ships.


The Muelle del Tinto is still standing and is enjoyed by joggers, dog walkers and romantic couples.


From the pier you can walk along the River Odiel which has a nature reserve along its banks. You’ll definitely see a lot of curlews, herons, egrets and fish, and if you’re lucky, otters and sea eagles.

Along the way one of the first things you’ll come across is the Estadio Nuevo Colombino. This is the home of Recreativo de Huelva, the oldest football club in Spain, which was founded by British mine workers in 1889.


After this you’ll encounter a swathe of oil refineries and factories built courtesy of Franco in the 50s.

Next you’ll come to the marina and boating club where you can stop for refreshments. A short distance further on and you get to Punta del Sebo, the confluence of the Odiel and the Tinto rivers, which is marked by a towering Cubist statue, the Monumento a Colón.


The statue commemorates Columbus who in 1492 first set sail for the New World from nearby Palos de la Frontera with crews made up of local sailors. It was a present from donors in the US to mark this historical voyage. Many people think the statue is of Columbus himself but it actually depicts a navigator looking towards the West.

The walk from the Muelle del Tinto to Punta del Sebo takes one hour each way, if you don’t dawdle.

Huelva – tapas in the centro part three – other places

Posted in Andalusia, Centro, Huelva, Huelva Province, Spain with tags , , , , on May 24, 2019 by gannet39

Huelva has so many good places to eat in the centre that I’ve had to break it down street by street. My favourite places are in my Part One – Calle Vazquez Lopez post but some of these are very good too, and the same for Part Three. Everywhere mentioned is on my map.

Puro Chup Chup (Intermediate B+), 6 Calle Rábida,

I came here for two reasons, firstly to try their international fusion cuisine for a change from the norm and secondly because they’re open Sunday evening, albeit with a reduced menu. Inside the restaurant is bright and modern and the staff are really very nice.

To start I had their Banh Mi de Cordero, Pina Asada y Encurtida con Pepinos, Chile Fresca y Salsa “Lamb of God” (lamb, roasted pineapple and with pickled cucumbers, fresh chilli and salsa) which was served in a hot dog bun. Although it was nothing like the real thing (it should be pork in a crispy baguette) , it was still tasty (B+). However the sweet “Lamb of God” sauce that was slathered on the top of the bun made it quite difficult to eat without making a mess.


I followed up with the Chateaubriand which arrived looking like a Modernist painting. The bits and pieces you can see in the photo include Apple Chutney, Foie, Pistachio Yoghurt, Apple Pearls and tiny Ice Cream Cones containing Afuega’l Pitu, a cow’s milk cheese from Asturias with a long history.


This all went well with a couple of glasses of a decent Garnacha (B).

For dessert I had the deconstructed Tiramisu as recommended by my excellent waiter. I’m not usually one for coffee based desserts but this one was really good (B+), and very filling.


With this I had a glass of fantastic Muscat dessert wine by Jorge Ordóñez from Malaga. There are four sweet wines in their line and this is called Victoria #2. It’s one of the best muscats I’ve ever had (A+) and I have since ordered a few bottles on the internet from for about €17 a half bottle.


However I’d advise against having this Portuguese almond flavoured digestive (C). It tastes like marzipan and I could virtually feel my teeth rotting when it was in my mouth.


Total cost €30.90. Puro Chup Chup is a nice change from the usual and I’d love to go again to try some of the other items on their menu.

Bar Paco Moreno (Elementary B+), 18 Paseo de la Independcia

Bar Paco is a plain and simple place with nothing going for it other than it’s excellent seafood. It’s a good place to try the excellent local prawns, Gambas de Huelva. They’re the best in Spain in many people’s opinions and you can get them here on the cheap for just €8 for 250g.

I also tried the fried cuttlefish, Chocos Fritas, which aren’t something I usually go for, but they were pretty good here.

At the bartenders insistence I also had a tapa of Adobo, the house special. Sadly though I could only manage one of these deep-fried vinegared fish (D+). It’s a rare foodstuff that defeats me in Europe but I just can’t get my head round this style of preparation. Biensamabe Adobo (dogfish) is another similar local speciality I just can’t find a way to like. Think you need to be brought up on it…

I’ll be back for the prawns though, and lots of them.

If you’re staying at the Hotel Monte Conquero, this place is just over the road.

strong>El Picoteo de la Rocina (Intermediate B+), 5 Calle Pablo Rada, open all day Sunday and Monday (which is unusual).

This place is a Lonely Planet top choice and it was also recommended by a local who said it’s a good spot for Sunday lunch. It’s always rammed so either reserve or get there as soon as it opens (9pm in the evening). Its popularity might explain why the staff seem so stressed, or perhaps they are chronically understaffed. Either way they seem to be running around like headless chickens with little time for pleasantries.

I began with some good Jamon Bellota (B+).


Next I had the gruff waiter’s suggestion of Entrecot de Ternera Gallego, a huge slab of Galician veal (500g I’m guessing) which was excellent (A-). However they were a bit stingy with the chips and I wasn’t that keen on the gloopy sauce on the side.


With this two glasses of an excellent Ribera del Duero (A) called Melior by Bodega Roble de Matarromera who also made the nice verdejo I had at Portichuelo. Finally, with some Manchego Curado, the total came to €45.60.

Bar Pappi’s (High Elementary B+), 6 Juan Antonio Perez Baez

A Guardian pick but also on my radar from a previous visit. It’s a twenty minute schlep from the Hotel Tartessos but worth it as they’ve been locally famous for their tapas since 1981.

They specialise in Andalucian montaditos, round buns filled with a extensive choice of fillings. I started with the El Mambo; seasoned chicken, Serrano ham, alioli and lettuce, which is their best seller.

I can also recommend the tapas of Musakas de Berenjena y Calbacin con Boloñesa (moussaka with aubergine, courgette and Bolognese sauce)…

…the Brocheta de Pulpo (grilled octopus paprika)…

…the Bola de Rape (battered monkfish cheeks with ham and mayonnaise)…

I think this was the Solomillo. By this point I was too busy chatting with my neighbour who was going to study in my hometown Sheffield!

My notes say this is the Hojalbre but it doesn’t look like puff pastry. It wasn’t on the menu but I managed to get it by showing them a picture of it from Trip Advisor.

There’s a good choice of wines. I enjoyed the Rioja especially.

And finally some dessert. Don’t ask me what it is but I’m sure it was good.

By the time it came to the brandy I was chatting with the friendly owner. The atmosphere definitely lends itself to meeting people so it’s a good place to practice your Spanish.

A plain, ordinary place but the tapas are good quality and quite imaginative. Definitely recommended.

Taberna Gautine (Intermediate C), 4 Calle Miguel Redondo

I really wanted to like this place but I wasn’t impressed by the food. Neither are the locals as it never seems to be busy. The international influences the Guardian mention didn’t seem so apparent when I went, perhaps because Pura Chup Chup has cornered the quirky fusion market.

On my friendly waiter Daniel’s recommendation, I had the Mejillones de Carbon; huge charcoal grilled mussels from Galicia which he said were better than the small local ones. If I’d known how big they were and how far they’d travelled I’d have ordered something else as I wasn’t too impressed (C).

The Huevos “Pa Romper” con Presa Iberica; lightly fried goose eggs with shoulder pork and cured ham were very rich and also too much for one and I left two of the yolks. The combination with the ham worked very well (B+) but the presa was oversalted and left me cold (C).

NB As I understand it Presa is a specialized muscle within the shoulder. It’s quite tender and juicy, but leaner than either the Plumas end loin or the Secreto flank steak. Pa Romper seems to be a reference to a Reggaeton track (huge in Spain).

To drink I had an Albarino with the mussels and a glass of Vizcarra, both of which were okay (B).

I also had a half racion of local cheeses which were great (A/B+).

When I asked for a brandy the waiters said they didn’t have any but I spied one of my all-time favourites; Ximenez Spinola ’10,000 Botellas’ which I was gobsmacked to get at only €8 a glass. It’s priced the same as Luis Felipe which is also €8, which is crazy as they both cost about €90 for a bottle. Ximenez Spinola is a local bodega so maybe they get it on the cheap. I went back a few nights till I drank the bottle dry.

Even more great tapas in part three, coming next!

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