Archive for the Osuna Category

Andalusia – eating and drinking in Osuna

Posted in Andalusia, Osuna, Seville Province, Spain with tags , , , , , , , , , , on March 28, 2019 by gannet39

There’s not a huge choice of places to eat in Osuna but here are a few good ones, in order of preference. My map is here.

Doña Guadalupe (High Intermediate A), 6 Plaza Guadalupe

This is the best, and probably most expensive, place in town, located in a hidden square just a few minutes’ walk from the Hotel Palacio Marques De La Gomera. You can sit outside under the porticos in the square but I chose to sit inside as it was a bit more comfortable.

On the waiter’s suggestion I began with the Surtido Iberico (three kinds of charcuterie with cured cheese, grilled peppers and some toast with local olive oil) which was great (A) but had I known it was going to be so big, and at a cost of €20, I wouldn’t have ordered it for just one person.

It was nice to see my old friend Overo (B), a red from nearby Lebrija, which was good value for €15.

For my segundo; Perdiz de Monte en su Jugo, or mountain partridge in its own gravy (B+).

And to finish, Flan Naranja con Arroz con Leche, aka orange caramel pudding with rice pudding (A).

With this a glass of ‘Espuny’ Pedro Ximenez (A).

Dessert came with some complimentary Pastitas Caseras (homemade shortbread biscuits) and two bottles of digestifs; Pacharan (a Basque liqueur made with sloes) and Aguardiente des Hierbas (like grappa with added herbs).

Total cost was a somewhat excessive €71 although this included a beer. You don’t have to be as greedy as me of course.

My second favourite place was this modern tapas bar…

Taberna Jicales (Intermediate B+), 11 Calle Esparteros

Tapas I tried included, in order of preference, Carrilladas aka pork cheeks (A), Pulpo Gallego or Galician style octopus (B+), Piruletas also known as chorizo lollipops (B+), Miloja de Berenjena or battered and deep-fried slices of aubergine enclosing some brie-like cheese (B-), Croquetas de Cabrales y Sidra aka Asturian blue cheese and cider croquettes (B-).

I was less keen on the Solomillo al Pedro Ximenez which is pork loin in a PX wine reduction (C+) and the Mini Hamburguesa (C). All of these were very cheap at only €2 or €3 a pop.

This next place is the local institution…

Casa Curro (Intermediate B), 5 Plaza Salitre

The food here is fine but nothing amazing. On my first evening I ate in their restaurant at the back. As you’d expect from an olive oil producing town, their olives are pretty good. I had their mixed Croquetas to start and followed up with the Rabo de Toro, stewed oxtail, and had a bottle of Ramon Bilbao Rioja to drink. The Flan de Chocolate finished things off. (All B).

On another night I enjoyed their Almejas de Carril en Salsa de la Casa (Galician clams in the house sauce) and their Salmorejo (bread and tomato soup with ham, egg and olive oil), along with a bottle of Barbadillo white wine (all B again).

You can get a very cheap brandy for a night cap from their tapas bar at the front.

There is no outdoor area Casa Curro so they have opened this other smaller tapas bar over the square where you can sit at tables on the street…

Taberna Currito Chico (Elementary A), 9 Plaza Salitre

I much prefer the ambience at this little tapas bar to that of its big sister over the road. The food seems a little better too. Certainly the Carrillada con Queso al Pedro Ximenez, pork cheek with cheese and a sweet wine reduction, is a winner (A). Tables are hard to snag though so arrive early.

El Molinillo (Elementary C+), 6 Plaza Mayor

This tiny tapas bar on the main square is run by a nice old boy. You could stand inside but the terrace on the square is a good spot for sinking a cold one while you watch the town at play in the evenings. Although the Jamon is good (B+), I wasn’t that impressed by the Solomillo Ajillo aka pork loin in garlic (C-).

And a couple to avoid…

Cafeteria Arco (High Elementary C), 8 Piazza Cervantes

Came here for lunch and ordered the Butifarra hoping for a grilled version of my favourite Catalan sausage. Got some thinly sliced cold version on white bread that was more akin to garlic sausage (C-) for which they charged me €3.

Vera (High Elementary C-), Calle Alfonso XII

Although this was #6 on TripAdvisor and the fifth most reviewed in 2017, the tapa of Bacalao Frito I had here failed to impress (C-).

For hotel room picnickers…

…you could get a roast chicken to go from Pollos Asados La Fama at 25 Calle Alfonso XII.

The old bakery Panadería Moyá (since 1920) at 60 Calle Sor Angela de la Cruz has some nice bread in the window.

And for those sweet of tooth, you can get cakes and biscuits from the nuns either from Religiosas Madres Concepcionistas at 1 Calle Sevilla or from Monasterio de la Encarnación at 2 Plaza la Encarnación.

Andalusia – walking around Osuna

Posted in Andalusia, Osuna, Seville Province, Spain with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 27, 2019 by gannet39

Historic Osuna is built on a sandstone hill which has been a source of ashlars (stone building blocks) for the town’s buildings for millenia. Some of these come from El Coto las Canteras, a spectacular quarry known as ‘the Petra of Andalusia’ which is just on the outskirts of town. Sadly this amazing attraction is only open on special occasions but the link above will give you a good idea of what it looks like inside. It’s on my map if you want to go and have a look through the fence.

We are put up at the best hotel in town, the 18th century Palacio Marques De La Gomera www.hotelpalaciodelmarques.es, a baroque palace with a beautiful stone facade and entrance. The turret room was used in the 2001 film “Callas Forever” with Fanny Ardant and Jeremy Irons. The cast and crew of series five of Game of Thrones also stayed here.

The entrance has some nice details and inside there is a lovely internal courtyard with a fountain. You can click to expand these and other smaller pics if you’re on a computer.

According to UNESCO Calle San Pedro is the second most beautiful street in Europe, While I’m not sure I agree with that, it does have another spectacular facade a few doors up at 15 Calle San Pedro. The Cilla del Cabildo Colegial is another baroque palace built in 1773.

The doorway is decorated with symbols of Seville’s cathedral, such as lilies in vases and a representation of the cathedral’s clocktower, La Giralda.

If you walk up to the top of and turn left you’ll soon come to the Posito Municipal andaluciarustica.com, at 80 Calle Carrera. Built in 1779 it was the town’s municipal granary and later a hospital.

At the bottom of the hill you come to the neo-classical Arco de la Pastora andaluciarustica.com, the Arch of the Sheperdess, which is the town’s last remaining gate.

Nearby is the Plaza de Toros dating from 1903.

It’s largely unused nowadays although some scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed inside.

On the other side of town on Calle San Agustín is the former post office, the Palacio de Miguel Reina Jurado andaluciarustica.com.

Nearby at 10 Calle la Huerta is the Palacio de los Cepeda andaluciarustica.com.

On a parallel street at 44 Calle Sevilla is the Palacio de Puente Hermosa, also known as the Palacio de Govantes y Herdera.

The impressive Solomonic columns of its doorway are decorated with bunches of grapes and vine leaves.

A few doors away on the same street is this unmarked building.

I love the decorative faces above the door.

Up the road at 9 Calle Sevilla, is the less impressive doorway of the Antiguo Convento de Santa Catalina. The internal layout of the convent was used as a template for convents in Mexico.

You can buy cakes from the nuns next door at Religiosas Madres Concepcionistas at 1 Calle Sevilla.

At the end of Calle Sevilla you come to Plaza Major. The town hall sits over one of the streets entering the square.

The eastern side is lined with attractive buildings.

From here you can see La Colegiata de Osuna on the hill above the town.

The Rennaisance church houses the Museo de Arte Sacro de la Colegiata de Osuna www.colegiatadeosuna.es.

On the way up the hill you’ll also come across the Torre del Agua andaluciarustica.com which is also the home of the Museo Arqueológico de Osuna. Neither museum’s opening hours coincided with when I was free unfortunately so I saved them for next time.

You can get some great views over the town from the top of the hill.

Over the road at the very top of the hill is the famous Escuela Universitaria de Osuna www.euosuna.org, founded in 1548 and still a functioning university.

I sneaked inside to get a few shots of the beautiful internal courtyard.

It was strangely quiet when I was there.

The walls of the entrance hall bear some ancient decorative inscriptions.

Back down at the bottom of the hill in a small square is the Iglesia y Torre de La Merced andaluciarustica.com.

And that is probably enough baroque for one day, time for some grub now…

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