Archive for the El Centro Category

Seville – Casco Antiguo – El Centro – Places to Eat

Posted in Andalusia, Casco Antiguo, El Centro, Seville, Seville Province, Spain with tags , , on February 18, 2017 by gannet39

As I mentioned in my previous post on El Centro, the centre of the Casco Antiguo is comprised of the barrios Encarnación Regina and Alfalfa which I have put together here for simplicity’s sake. You’ll find a map of barrios here and a Google map of the city here.

There is yet another excellent bar de tapas in this bit of town:

Los Coloniales (Intermediate B+), 1 Calle Dormitorio, www.tabernacoloniales.es

This is a classic old tapas bar that gets lots of positive reviews and mentions in guides. There are two locations but this is the best one by all accounts. The rustic style food is consistently good and portions are cheap and generous.

I had the Plato del Dia (daily special); Timbal Camperos (B), a gratin of ham, sausage, potato and various other veg with Salmorejo drizzled over the top.
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My favourite though was the classic Sevillano dish of Solomillo al Whisky; pork tenderloin in a whisky sauce (B+). I love the roasted whole cloves of garlic. It was so much better than the similar Sollomillo Ajo I had at Sol y Sombra (see my Eating in Triana post).

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Finally, Pionones, a typical dessert of Granada (B+). Typically it has two parts: a thin layer of pastry fermented with different kinds of syrup and rolled into a cylinder, and secondly a topping of toasted cream.

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All the red wines I tasted were fine (B) but nothing out of this world. Four glasses of wine, including a PX to finish, came to a measly €17.20.

Another plus is that all the staff who work here are very nice people, which to me is as important as the food. Already looking forward to the next time I can go.

The opposite is true of this place…

El Rinconcillo (Intermediate B), 40 Calle Gerona, www.elrinconcillo.es

This is Seville’s oldest bar, opened in 1670.

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Visually it’s a wonderful place with a beautifully tiled interior.

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And old posters advertising the Feria (Seville’s fair) on the walls.

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Unfortunately though the food isn’t up to much and the wine I had was quite mediocre.

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And the service isn’t very friendly.

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So a place resting on its laurels, but it’s worth popping in for a look.

Los Claveles at 1 Calle Capataz Manuel Santiago, opposite El Rinconcillo, is a nice old place too, but I haven’t tried their food.

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A good shop for kitchen hardware in the aria is Isaias Sainz at 28 Calle Francos. It has been around forever apparently. Get your meatball scissors here.

Seville – Casco Antiguo – El Centro – Architecture

Posted in Andalusia, Casco Antiguo, El Centro, Seville, Seville Province, Spain with tags , on February 17, 2017 by gannet39

El Centro is defined differently by different people but for my purposes it’s the area between Plaza de Encarnacion (location of Las Setas) and Plaza Nueva (location of the town hall), and the interconnecting shopping streets of Velazquez/Tetuan, Sierpes and Cuna.

El Centro is comprised of the barrios Encarnación Regina and Alfalfa which I have put together here for simplicity’s sake. Map of barrios here and a Google map of the city here.

See my next post for places to eat around here.

El Centro has many interesting buildings. Beginning in Plaza de Encarnacion, we can see the Espacio Metropol Parasol, a post-modern construction known to Sevillanos as ‘Las Setas’ (The Mushrooms), for obvious reasons.

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It’s a multi-level building housing an archaeology museum displaying Roman ruins in the basement, a market on the ground floor and restaurants on the upper level.

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You can also walk across the roof in the day time.

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My favourite building in the area is this modernista house on the corner of Calle Alfonso XII and Calle Almirante Ulloa.

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The architect was Aníbal González who studied in Barcelona where he must have caught the modernisme bug.

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As you’d expect there’s a lot of Neo-Mudéjar architecture around.

This example is on Avenida de la Constitucion near the cathedral.

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And this on the corner of Calle Cuna and Calle Cerrajería. It was built in 1914 and is the work of architect José Espiau y Muñoz.

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Restaurant Victoria Eugenia
, also on Calle Cuna at Plaza de Villasís, was built in the early nineteenth century by the famous architect Aníbal González, who is also responsible for Plaza de España (see later post).

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In Plaza Nueva you can see the town hall or ayuntamiento which is called the Casa Consistorial de Sevilla. It’s built in the Plateresque style meaning “in the manner of a silversmith”; a blend of Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance and Lombard decorative elements (a style particular to Spain).

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The façade includes heraldic symbols, allegories of justice and good governance and depictions of mythological and historical characters such as Hercules and Julius Caesar who are considered instrumental in the city’s history.

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