Archive for the San Benedetto Category

Cagliari – Quartiere San Benedetto – Mercato San Benedetto

Posted in Cagliari, Italy, San Benedetto, Sardinia with tags on March 5, 2016 by gannet39

Quartiere San Benedetto has a famous market called the Mercato San Benedetto www.mercatosanbenedetto.it which is the largest covered market in Italy and one of the biggest in Europe. There are 300 stalls in all.

I got up at 6am to go and have a look one morning. It’s open from 07.00 to 14.00 every day (except Sunday when it closes) so you have to arrive early to catch the action.

20150604_073154

The fruit and veg is on the upper level.

20150604_071634

20150604_072733

20150604_072631

20150604_072916

Along with butchers…

20150604_071507

… bakers…

20150604_073106

and cheese mongers. I meant to ask them for Casu Marzu and Su Callu (see my Extreme Cheese post) but was too entranced by the market to remember.

20150604_072049

20150604_072058

And of course there are the lumache (snail) stalls.

20150604_071723

I counted three varieties in all. The smallest are Tappadas (also called Monachelle).

20150604_072832

Sizigorrus I think are also grey with a striped shell but larger.

20150604_072853

Monzette are bigger and browner. Snails cover their cavity with a white membrane when they are in hibernation.

20150604_072842

Sardinia is more famous for its land ingredients rather than fish but the whole of the lower level of the market is dedicated to seafood.

20150604_073923

20150604_074031

20150604_074411

20150604_073841

20150604_073806

20150604_074304

20150604_073423

20150604_073347

20150604_074200

20150604_073257

20150604_073949

20150604_073347

Another thing I forgot to ask for was bottarga, made in Sardinia with the dried roe of flathead mullet (as opposed to tuna in Sicily). It’s a local specialty that is served with bread or grated onto pasta.

20160304_151319

When I got home to Sheffield I did manage to get some Sardinian Bottarga di Muggine (pictured above) from my friend’s deli for about £17.50 ($23) for 100g, which was much more expensive than in Cagliari I’m sure.

All the stall holders were happy to let me take photos when I asked. One chap even put me behind his stall so he could take a photo of me pretending to be a fishmonger! Unfortunately I think I made a better fishmonger than he did a photographer!

20150604_074432

There was even a stall for sea anemones (anemoni di mare or orziadas) but the photo didn’t come out very well sorry.

20150604_074238

I’ve only seen them being eaten deep-fried in Andalucia in Spain before. They do the same here apparently but also have them on pizza and with spaghetti and bottarga. I’ve never seen them on a restaurant menu though.

Cagliari – Quartiere San Benedetto – architecture around Piazza della Republica

Posted in Cagliari, Italy, Piazza della Republica, San Benedetto, Sardinia with tags on March 4, 2016 by gannet39

Quartiere San Benedetto is the more modern area to the east of Quartiere Marina. Some of the buildings around here date from the 1930s.

I especially love this art deco apartment block on the west side of Piazza Republica.

20150618_103031

On the other side of Piazza Republica is the Palace of Justice, an intimidating neo-classical monster built during the fascist dictatorship.

20150618_102545

This brutalist war memorial is a few streets away. I’m guessing it also dates from Mussolini’s time.

This impressive building with art nouveau statues is also nearby.

20150618_101707

And this lovely flower-covered palm tree is on Via Mancini.

20150618_103816

%d bloggers like this: