Please see my previous post for things to see in Triana.
Most evenings I walk out from the Hotel Ribera de Triana and head over the river into Seville to one of the many excellent places to eat in the Casco Antiguo (see later posts).
However, as luck would have it, my favourite eatery in the whole of Seville is in Triana, just a few minutes walk from the hotel…
Google map here.
Puratasca (A), 5 Calle Numancia, www.puratasca.com
I liked this place so much that I came here three times in ten days! It’s a fairly simple neighbourhood tapas bar with a modern attitude in terms of décor and food presentation.
It’s very popular so it’s best to arrive when they open (Tuesday to Saturday from 13:00 to 16:30 and 20:30 to 24:00) especially in the evenings. As a lone diner I was often given a seat at the bar which meant I could chat with the chefs and watch the goings-on in the open kitchen.
All the staff are friendly and a couple speak English, not that they should, but I had a couple of good chats. For example, Gaitano, the big chap with a beard, grew up living in a semi-detached and playing cricket in his native Huelva (see future post); a city heavily influenced by British culture. Pedro, a younger guy was keen to practice for his A2 English exam, told me that the best croquettas in town are from Casa Ricardo (see my google map). Such local knowledge is gold for a foodie.
Other plus points are the cool soundtrack of Jazz and Blues, and their extensive wine list. And then there’s the food…
I never truly appreciated Mojama (air-dried tuna) until I came here. It was tender and full of flavour (A), probably because it came from Barbate in Cadiz province which is famed for Bluefin.
The Foie con Chutney de Manzana, goose liver with apple chutney, served with Pan de Especias, a dark brown ‘spiced’ bread made with molasses and seven spices, is great (B+).
The Arroz Meloso (like a wet paella) made with five kinds of mushrooms, parmesan and flavoured with white truffle, was one of the best things I ate all year (A+). I had it each time I came. Here’s the nearest recipe I could find on the web, but remember to use more varieties of mushrooms.
It goes famously with a glass of Toro called Muruve (A). They have several other wines served by the glass. I tried the Protocolo, Muruve and Garzur which were all fine as I recall.
I also liked the Mollejas de Cordero, lamb sweetbreads (preserved a la confit then grilled), served with a pineapple and ginger chutney (B+).
Also the Piruletes de Chorizo, chorizo ‘lollipops’ in tempura and served with a mayonnaise of curry powder and cranberries (arándanos), were tasty and original (B+).
I also enjoyed their Crema Alcachofas (creamed artichokes) (A).
The Wok de Verduras was the weakest dish I had but was still good (B).
The Seleccion de Quesos Andaluces included the cheeses Valles de los Redrodes from Cordoba (B+), Villamartin from Cadiz (B+), Armilla from Granada (A+) and La Granada de Riotinto from Huelva (A). They were served with walnuts and roasted red pepper jam which was a revelation (A).
My server suggested I had a glass of medium bodied Jumilla called MMM (Monastrell Macho Man) to go with this. It had an unusual nose and made a nice change (B+).
There’s a good choice of sweets. I went with a chef’s suggestion that I finish with the Greek yogurt, mango and passion fruit dessert (bottom left in the picture) which was delish (A).
He also said it would go very well with a glass of Sauternes, a French wine from Chateau Cousteau. He wasn’t wrong (A).
At the end of another meal I had a good Pedro Jimenez from Romate (B+).
So, a veritable feast awaits you here! This is my first choice for tapas in Seville and I can’t wait to go back. I even brought some locals here and blew their minds. They couldn’t get their heads round the fact that an Englishman knew better places in their own city than they did!
Sol y Sombra (Intermediate B+), 147 Calle Castilla, www.tabernasolysombra.com
This famous, old (since 1961) tapas bar on a bull fighting theme is an interesting contrast to the place above. They get top marks for atmosphere but their tapas, while cheap and good, aren’t a patch on Puratasca.
Perhaps I’d been spoiled but their most famous dish Solomillo Ajo, tenderloin with garlic, failed to impress. I loved the garlic and potato elements but I found the loin to be a bit overcooked and I wasn’t fond of the vinegary aftertaste (C).
There’s plenty of other stuff to choose from though, the walls are covered with suggestions.
It is undeniably quirky, the toilets are behind the bar and they use toilet rolls for napkins! Come to sample the surroundings by all means (I love the ancient bullfighting posters) but maybe choose something different from me.
By the way, Sol y Sombra translates as ‘sun and shade’ which relates to the ticket choices at a bullfight (cheap or expensive or medium priced if a bit of both). However, it can also be a drink that is 50% brandy and 50% sweet anis. Only for the brave!
Las Golondrinas (Intermediate B), 26 Calle Antillano Campos, www.barlasgolondrinas.com
Another well-known and quite atmospheric tapas bar within walking distance of the hotel. You can stand in the busy bar or sit upstairs in the attractive seating area.
I didn’t see a tapas menu but media raciones are generally €12 to €15 which is a bit steep for a single diner. A local blogger really rates their grilled mushrooms with garlic mousse but they didn’t do much for me (C). Everything else was fine though (B).
Over the river next…