Ariccia (map here) is a small town of 20,000 people, but with a long history going back to at least the 8th or 9th century BC. In ancient times it was the first stop on the Via Appia, Rome’s first paved road, which passes through the town on its way to the south.
Ariccia is one of the fifteen towns of the Castelli Romani region (map here). Perched on a high ridge, the town has sweeping views across the Lazio countryside, and to the sea beyond.
Just 25km south-west from Rome, Ariccia has long been an escape for people from the capital, including popes, poets, artists and aristocrats on the Grand Tour, and in modern times, porchetta aficionados like myself (more of which in the next dedicated post Ariccia – eating porchetta).
The main entrance to the town is via the famous Ponte di Ariccia, a monumental bridge which straddles the valley. If you’re arriving by car, it’s advisable to use the free car park under the bridge. For a euro, a small funicular will take you up to the town.
Coming offthe bridge, the first building you come to on the immediate left is the imposing Palazzo Chigi, a baroque palace dating from 1664.
On the right, opposite Palazzo Chigi, is Piazza di Corte, the central square. Contributions to the design of both the palace, the square and its buildings were made by the famous Baroque sculptor and architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini, of whom I am a big fan (see my Bernini statues and fountains post).
Unfortunately for me the square and its buildings were being renovated when I was there, so I couldn’t appreciate everything in its full glory, but they should be finished by now.
I did however get to look at the interior of Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo, the town’s main church located in the square, which has a lovely cupola. For its design, Bernini was inspired by the vaults and oculus in the roof of the Pantheon.
The lovely stucco angels holding garlands around the dome are the work of the sculptor Antonio Raggi, a student of Bernini.
The painting on the altar, “Rest on the Flight into Egypt”, is by Ludovico Gimignani.
Another focal point in the town is around the council building on Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi. The building itself has some attractive bas-reliefs featuring various labourers at work.
Next door is an old church, now converted into a theatre, and between the two buildings are some large exposed stones, presumably remanants from the town’s ancient walls.
There aren’t many other noticable old remains, except for the Porta Romana on the south side of the town. It is one of the two medieval city gates that gave entrance to Ariccia, on what used to be the street towards Rome, before the bridge was built.
The town itself is a charming maze of alleys flights of stairs and narrow streets, many of which are inaccessible by car.
No walk around an Italian town is complete without a coffee stop. The best cafe I found, in particular for a breakfast pastry, was Antico Caffe’ di Fa Paolo at 1/2/3 Largo Porta Napoletana.
I stayed for three nights (at around £75 a night) in a comfortable Airbnb called Casa Flavia at 65 Via del Parco, hosted by the very accommodating and helpful Cinzia. Definitely recommended.
I really enjoyed my time in Ariccia for culinary reasons as well, in particular porchetta, more about which in the next post…