Castelli Romani – a walk to Castel Gandolfo

Besides feasting on porchetta, another reason to stay in Ariccia is because of its proximity to some of the other pretty towns in the Castelli Romani region (my map here).

One sunny day I decided to walk for an hour to Castel Gandolfo (my map here), where the pope has his summer residence.

The first part of the walk, along the SS7, follows the route of the original Via Appia and takes you through the town of Albano Laziale. Next to the road you can see the Church of San Pietro with its Romanesque belltower. The origins of this church date back to the 4th century and the interior was once an ancient Roman thermal bath.

Soon afterwards on the other side of the road, you’ll come across the amusing Fonte del Mascherone, carved from Travertine, a local limestone from Tivoli.

Shortly after the fountain, the SP66 road to Castel Gandolfo peels off to the right. Eventually you come to a gate bearing the papal coat of arms which marks the southern entrance to Castel Gandolfo.

The two keys wither side of the papal crown represent the pope’s power on earth and in heaven. You’ll see this symbol everywhere in Castel Gandolfo, and around the Castelli Romani, as they were once part of the papal states, under the direct rule of the pope.

The town is primarily composed of four long parallel streets of characterful buildings that run along a high ridge with extensive views on either side.

As you’d expect, papal references are everywhere.

The main street Corso della Repubblica ends in Piazza della Libertà, the main focal point of the town.

In the centre of the square is the crumbling Fontana di Piazza della Libertà, where all the old guys hang out.

And at the far end is the pope’s residence, the Palazzo Pontificio, which was rebuilt on the ruins of the original castle from which the town got its name.

For a fee the palace can be visited should you be so inclined, along with the attractive gardens next door if they are open.

Also in the square is another Bernini church, Chiesa Pontificia di San Tommaso da Villanova. The cupola is even more striking than the one he designed in Ariccia but unfortunately some inconsiderate people were getting married when I went, so I didn’t get a good look inside.

Down the side of the church you get a glimpse of the reason Castel Gandolfo makes the list of I Borghi più belli d’Italia (“The most beautiful villages of Italy”).

The town has stunning views over Lago Albano, a picturesque lake in an ancient volcanic crater. Historically the area has always been resort for Romans wanting to escape the capital for the country and there are numerous summer residences and villas around its shores. The lake also hosted the rowing events for the 1960 Summer Olympics in Rome. Today it still attracts tourists from all over the world.