Lucky Lucca

20130505_18585320130505_185859Lucca  is a beautiful Tuscan town, steeped in history and culture, and with a strong food tradition. The old town in surrounded by huge thick walls from the Renaissance period and it’s also the birthplace of Puccini. (Please click on any of these photos to for the best view).

Inevitably then it’s a very popular tourist destination and the main streets are often heaving with people, even in early May which is when I arrived to spend two days.

20130505_192915Fortunately I had a local contact to help me make the most of it. My good friend Tim upped sticks and moved here a year before to indulge his passions in cycling, eating and all things Italian. Tim had been the chef and proprietor of Buca, a cult restaurant in Sheffield specialising in rustic European cuisine with a strong Italian influence and an emphasis on quality ingredients. Sheffield’s loss was my gain as I couldn’t have wanted for a better guide in the short time I was here.

Miro Club (Elementary A), 25 Via dei Fossi

Tim took me to this place in a quiet corner of the old town which sells quality peasant-style food at reasonable prices. Consequently it’s popular with the locals and unknown to tourists so you shouldn’t have a problem being seated early in the evening. They have a nice backyard where you can sit outside in the summer although it was closed when I was there. To get their licence they had to become a members ‘club’, but don’t worry, it’s very quiet and relaxed and anyone can eat there.

20130504_205031To start I wanted the Tortelli al Sugo, tortelli being the local filled pasta, similar to ravioli. In the Apuan area (which includes Lucca) it takes a semi-circular shape, and is pronounced by the Lucchese as ‘tordelli’. Unluckily they had sold out and I had to settle for a different flat pasta instead, but this didn’t diminish the taste of the sauce which was delicious (A).

To follow I had the Boconcini di Vitello, ‘small mouthfulls’ of stewed veal, also very good (B), accompanied by garlic roast potatoes, a combination that I was less keen on (C).  Although the food was absolutely fine, I couldn’t finish it as a result of a large lunch earlier in the day, much to the chagrin of the chef who I had to explain myself to.

With a decent house red and a limoncello to finish the bill came to a very reasonable €20, mainly due to Tim’s friendship with the owner. All the same, it’s very reasonable and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it.

20130607_225832Trattoria Gigi (Intermediate A), 7 Via del Carmine, Tel. 0583 467266 www.gigitrattoria.it

Tim and I came to this place on another night with our friends Rob, Alice and Alison. It’s a great little spot, away from the tourist streets in a pleasant square. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, the staff are friendly and the food is excellent.

IMG_4746Sheffield foodies might be interested to know that the old sign at Gigi’s inspired the sign for Bragazzi’s on Abbeydale Road in which Tim was a business partner.

20130607_214530I started with a bowl of the local hearty soup Garmugia Lucchese, made of peas, artichokes, asparagus, and in this case, with meatballs (B+).

20130607_220624Pollo Aromatizzato alle Erbette Schiacciato con Mattone or grilled chicken flavoured with aromatic herbs. I think ‘mattone’, which means ‘brick’ in English is referring to the terracotta pot it was cooked inside. Anyway, it was very tasty! (B+).

20130607_214303Tim selected a bottle of Palistorti di Valgiano red from the local Colline Lucchese DOC which was really good (A) while not being too pricey and a great match with the chicken,

20130607_230209I can’t remember what the desserts were (a good time was had!) but they looked great.

20130607_230600So, another great little spot. Wish I could go again!

Here’s a New York Times article from 2006 about Lucca’s food scene that was on the wall at Gigi’s.

The following two places are very much on the tourist trail and so a bit more expensive, but still very good.

Trattoria da Leo (Intermediate A), 1 via Tegrimi, Tel. 0583 492236

This is the most popular place in town due to recommendations in many guidebooks, so you really must reserve to get in. I arrived when it opened at 7.30 and it was full by 7.45. The clientele includes lots of tourists but also plenty of locals.

There’s one large dining room and a smaller side room and bar area with parsimonious but atmospheric decor. Prices are reasonable with first courses (soups, pastas) for only €7 and just breaking double figures for the second courses, which is very good value for a tourist town in the north.

20130505_194210Again though my appetite let me down and I couldn’t do justice to the menu. Tuscany is famous for its soups and also farro (wild wheat) so I went for the Minestra di Farro, a murky brown and highly unphotogenic dish with a full earthy flavour suggesting an unmentioned meat stock, but not so according to this recipe. I thoroughly enjoyed it (B+) but it was a meal in itself and I couldn’t even contemplate a main course, instead choosing a dessert I hadn’t heard of before.

20130505_203423Cantuccini con Vino Santo, turned out to be a chopped up biscuit (also know as Biscotti di Prado)  not too dissimilar to amaretti which are also almond flavoured and quite hard as they are baked twice. They were ok (B) and the glass of sweet wine which came with it was passable (C+). Together with cover, water and a just about drinkable half litre of slightly vinegary house red, the price was only €18. A good place worthy of another trip, but make sure you have a decent appetite.

Buca di San Antonio (Advanced B+), 3 via della Cervia, www.bucadisanantonio, closed Sunday evening and Monday.

Considered by many (locals and guidebooks) as the best place for fine dining in Lucca, this is a formal but friendly place. ‘Buca’ translates as ‘hole’ but also means a tavern or osteria in old Tuscan, and inspired the name of Tim’s restaurant back home when he first visited the town a few years ago. The decor is olde worlde with lots of old brass instruments and copper pans hanging off the ancient wooden beams. It’s been a hostelry since at least 1782 and probably much earlier.

20130504_143024I went straight to the second course, Filletino de Cinta alla Crema di Tartufo con Sformato di Carciofi; tender pink slices of pork loin with truffle sauce (B), piped mashed potato (B) and a hash of artichokes topped with tiny strips of crunchy courgette and carrot which tasted very unusual in a good way (B+). I tried to elucidate the secret ingredient but the waiter insisted these three vegetables were the only constituents.

20130504_144749Rather than a sweet I thought I’d try the Pecorini Tipici di Zona; three slabs of sheep’s cheese of various ages served with honey. The fresh formaggio was fine (B) but the oldest was sublime (A).

20130504_142422On the liquid front, a half bottle of red (B) and a glass of fragrant grappa (Vigna del Greppo) (A), the latter suggested by the friendly sommelier who used to live in York.

20130504_150547Both drinks were from Montecarlo, a small village near Lucca famous for its wine, although Tim later told me it was tourist tackle which the locals exported so they could keep the less famous but better stuff for themselves.

The final bill came to a tasty €43.50. I’d go again for a treat but make different choices next time. There are of course lots of other good places, but these were the only ones I got to in the short spell I was there.

20130505_185943Lucca has several attractive churches, the most beautiful being San Michele, in the big piazza bearing its name. The facade is quite stunning and one of the main draws of the town.

20130505_185826Wander around though and you will find lots more little gems to feed the camera.

The broad walls, wide enough for two cars to pass should they be allowed up here, stretch for 4.7km around the town. They make a great jogging and cycling circuit and have good views of the surrounding countryside and hills.

20130505_185651I stayed at the Albergo Celide www.albergocelide.it, a fairly posh mid-range hotel (€110 a night), with friendly staff and a good breakfast. It has a spa but no gym and you can borrow bicycles from them for the day.

20130504_153850However if you want a proper tour with a guide you should go to Chrono cycles at 93 Corso Garibaldi www.chronobikes.com where, if you are lucky, you might get Tim as your guide.

Copy of photoLucca is lovely and you cannot help but be happy here. Hope I can visit again soon.

A postscript for friends and family, this picture of me enjoying a spritz in Piazza San Michele is the last known one of me beardless, just in case you wanted to remember!😀 x

6 Responses to “Lucky Lucca”

  1. Luke cowdrey Says:

    awesome ralph

  2. My partner and I went to Lucca in early May 2006 along with two friends of ours from Rome. At that time Lucca had the reputation of being ‘undiscovered’ by foreign tourists and mainly visited by Italians. It was clear that this was changing rapidly as, during the day at least, there were already large numbers of coach parties following the usual person holding a pennant or furled umbrella aloft and the streets around the main attractions (San Michele, the Duomo, the Guinigi and delle Ore towers, the Amphitheatre) were crowded. In the evenings things were much quieter, indeed Lucca is a very quiet place at night with, then, only one late night bar and, scandalously, no late night gelato place (although I believe the local supplier Gelateria Veneta now opens to 1 am).

    The Lucchese have the reputation of being conservative and complacent and although there were no signs of hostility to tourists they don’t always go out of their way to be welcoming. At one restaurant we went to (the Osteria Baralla – in all the guidebooks – I believe) we got peculiar looks when one of our party ordered a second primo instead of a secondo (maybe it was his hybrid Trento/Roman accent), then when finishing the meal we got a sub-melodramatic performance of dirty looks, exasperated gestures etc from one of the owners for not leaving quickly enough (even though there was no-one waiting to be seated). This after his protracted sycophantic fawning upon some local media celeb (the Lucchese Alan Partridge or some such) and his latest girlfriend at the next table. The food here, however, was very good, in particular a risotto dei asparagi.

    Another night we went with our Italian friends to a small place in one of the side streets near San Michele (can’t remember the name) and had a good, and good value, meal. When we returned on our own a few nights later, however, we got the ‘bait and switch’ trick with the wine: ordered a bottle from the list, it came to the table with the cork out and not the wine we’d ordered inside. Annoying. At least the waitress had the decency to look very embarassed about the whole thing.

    We stayed at another guidebook favourite, the Piccolo Puccini (a lot of things here are named after him). In a quiet piazzetta just off the Piazza San Michele, it’s a comfortable, if somewhat old-fashioned, place and good value for the current price of c. €100 a night.

    In 2006 there was an official (province or commune) enoteca just north of the city walls (by some playing fields) but I’m not sure it’s still there. If it is, it’s well worth a visit with a wide range of Tuscan wines by the glass, including the ubiquitous cantuccini con vin santo, and better value than those in the main town.

    Lucca is well worth a visit, although the greater degree of visitor crowding probably cuts down on its charms during the day, with a well-preserved centro storico. It’s also a good base to take a trip up into the Garfagna area nearby. The Tripadvisor pages are full of whinges from people who couldn’t drive to their hotels. Well, doh! It’s a walled town with narrow streets and only residents can drive in. We went by train and, unlike many such towns in Tuscany, the station is just short walk from the town centre. It’s 20 minutes at most by train from Pisa so easily reached.

    And, finally, you seem to be retracing the footsteps of Aurelio Zen once more. In ‘Back to Bologna’ he’s living in semi-hiding in a flat on Via Del Fosso.

  3. Fantastico. Can’t wait to get over there.

  4. Love Lucca Raif!!! Cycled the boys around the wall – before they collapsed in 40 degree heat.

    • He he. It does get hot out there, but I think 30C is the summer max.
      Too hot for us pasty northerners!
      I’ll put you in touch with my boy Tim if you go cycling there again.
      He works for a cycle shop🙂

  5. Thanks for finally talking about >Lucky Lucca | Thee Gannet <Liked it!

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