Bari – Quartiere Murat – shops, bars and buildings

Quartiere Murat is where most of the good mid-range and high end restaurants are located. Please see my next post for food, this is about all the other stuff.

The Murat district is bordered by the sea and the old town Barivecchia to the north, and the train tracks to the south. The other city quarters of Madonella and Liberta are to the east and west.

It’s named after Joachim Murat who was a Marshal of Napoleon Bonaparte and head of the government of the Kingdom of Naples, who ushered in the construction of the new area. The walls surrounding the old town were dismantled on the land side and replaced by Corso Vittorio Emanuele which allowed the city to expand.

At first, much of this part of town seems quite unattractive with relatively modern blocks squeezed together by dirty streets with narrow pavements. However, there are some lovely buildings dotted around if you can find them.

I love the over the top Art Noveau stylings of Palazzo Mincuzzi (corner of Via Sprano da Bari and Via Putignani) which is now a clothes store in the posh shopping district (pedestrian streets Via Sparano and Via Argiro).

You can also find Teatro Petruzzelli near here at 12 Corso Cavour. It’s the fourth largest theatre in Italy but is sadly closed in 2014 due to the state of the economy.

I don’t know what this building is called (at 127 Via Putignani, on the corner of Via Cairoli) but I love the detailing and the animal heads above the balconies.


Each animal is carrying its typical food in its mouth so the walrus has a fish, the fox has a bird, the ram some grass and so on.


I’m not quite sure what its religious function is but Palazzina San Clemente at 245 Beata Elia di San Clemente has a beautifully carved stone entrance.


20140628_200311Here’s a bit of dirty and forgotten Art Nouveau at 205 Via Putignani, just a few doors down from Ristorante Terranima.


20140615_130641An excellent deli is Salumeria de Carne Francesco at 128 Via Calefati. In 2009 I managed to get a bottle of fragolino, an apertivo infused with whole wild strawberries from here. It was hard to get at the time because the alcohol was too low for it to be considered a wine, leading to an uncertain legal status.
Taralli biscuits are a local speciality, the fennel (finocchio)and onion flavours being especially tasty but ideally they should be eaten a day or two after purchase.
Confitteria Mucci at 116 Via Principe Amedeo is a sweet shop with a lot of tradtion (see my Andria post).

Enoteca Vinarius De Pasquale at 87 Via Marchese di Montrone is a sizable wine shop, founded in 1911, with an extensive range of Puglian wines. They also have an online shop.

Their efficient staff helped me post a dozen bottles of Fiano ‘Minutolo’ by Cantina Polvanera back home and they all arrived safe and sound. I think they worked out at about £10 a bottle in the end, only about 25% more than their price in Italy which was very cheap to start with.
Cantina Cairoli is another big enoteca at 81 Via Cairoli. Local varietals recommended by my national manager Claudia (who is also a qualified sommelier!) are the reds Primitivo Manduria and Nero di Troia,

La Taverna del Maltese (Intermediate B), 67 Via Nicolai

20140630_224242This is an everyone-friendly bar (PACE flags on the wall) with a large screen for watching the match inside and a spacious terrace out back, which is unusual for this part of town.

There are a few, mainly German, draught beers on offer which are fine but I haven’t tried the food.

There are several bars along at the old town end of Corso Emanuele.

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