Jaen Province – Andújar – Places to Eat and Swim
I found it pretty hard to eat well here unfortunately. There are plenty of tapas bars selling good honest fare in the centre but all the (supposedly) better quality places seemed to be closed or out of town, either in the countryside around or off the motorway, so you’d really need a car to get to them.
I did find a couple of places that were okay though. You can find them on this Google map, along with several places I didn’t get to.
Cayetano (Intermediate B+), 10 Calle Corredera San Bartolomé
A bit of a trek from the hotel (about thirty minutes’ walk) but worth it for the huge salads they serve (B+). The one in the picture was a half portion believe it or not and it only cost €4.50.
The region is famous for its game dishes so I decided to try Carne de Monte which is deer meat slow cooked with oregano I think. I’m not usually a fan of venison but this was pretty tasty (B+).
I came back one evening and had their intriguing Berenjenas con Salmorejo, deep fried slices of aubergine with the thick bread soup and diced ham on top, but sadly I wasn’t impressed (C). Perhaps the day time chef is better.
Los Naranjos (Intermediate B), 4 Calle Guadalupe (an alley off the west side of Plaza de la Constitucion)
‘The Orange Trees’ was recommended by one of the local teachers. It’s a plain and simple place that basically one large room with some tables outside in the alley. The waiters are super-efficient and the food is decent. I had Gambas al Ajillo (B) and a huge plate of codfish croquetas (B).
El Mercao (Intermediate B), Plaza de la Constitucion
A popular bar off the main square. I had a decent menu del dia here which included the famous Flamequin, involving deep fried ham and cheese (B).
I also went to La Columna, a cafe bar at 15 Calle Emperador Trajano, www.copaytapa.com. It was very busy with lots of locals but I don’t remember being impressed by the food (C) even if I don’t remember what I had. It was very cheap though.
There are of course lots of other tapas bars around town. Bar Rincon Andaluz at 4 Calle Hoyo seems very popular although their specialty is snails which I don’t get on with anymore.
I think it must have been snail season as just about every bar was selling them and literally everyone seemed to be eating them.
The municipal sports centre, the Polideportivo Municipal de Andújar at Calle Egido del Puente, has a large outdoor pool which would be very welcome in the summer heat if you have a day off. It was closed when I was there in April, despite the weather being quite warm, because it wasn’t officially summer as yet. Red tape, don’t you just love it.