Naples – food shopping in the Centro Storico

There are several good food shops in the old town, especially along Spaccanapoli (aka Via Benedetto Croce):


Antiche Delizie, 14 Via Pasquale Scura (the western continuation of Spaccanapoli although technically it’s in the Pignasecca area).

A deli selling cheese, charcuterie, anti-pasti and wines. They are said to sell the best Mozzarella in town and on Fridays they sell Caprignetti, a herb-stuffed goat’s cheese.

Timpani & Tempura, 17 Vico Quercia (a small alley running north off the western end of Via Benedetto Croce).

A small deli selling pasta, cheese, wine and ‘timbali’ (baked tarts), including classics such as Paccheri in Piedi (ricotta and fior di latte cheeses with San Marzano tomatoes) and Sartu (rice, peas, provola, meat balls and chicken livers) that have their origin in 18th century Neapolitan court cuisine.

Eder, 44 Via Benedetto Croce.

A grocery store selling local pastas and other specialities which are attractively displayed on the outside of the shop.


They used to sell multi-coloured packets of penis pasta for the titillation of tacky tourists, but they seem to have cleaned up their act of late. It’s hard to imagine anyone actually ate the stuff.


Gay Odin, 61 Via Benedetto Croce,

One of nine branches of this famous cioccolateria (see my Via Toledo food post for more details). As well as selling artisan chocolate products that make great gifts, this particular branch is reputed to be the best gelateria in town.

Gay Odin Cioccolateria

And along Via Tribunali…

Limone, Piazza San Gaetano (the square in front of Basilica di San Paolo Maggiore).

You can get free tastings of their organic limoncello which is made on site.

Lacryma Christi Enoteca, 12 Via San Pietro a Maiella (the western end of Tribunali).

The ‘Tears of Christ’ wine shop has an extensive selection of Italian wines and spirits. They are my second choice for wine shopping after L’Enoteca del Grottino below but first choice for spirits.

Tears of Christ booze shop

And along the eastern continuation of Via Sapienza…

L’Enoteca del Grottino, 17 Piazzetta San Giuseppe dei Ruffi (next to Via Duomo).

This enoteca has the best selection of Campanian wines that I know of in town. You can pick up your favourite wines for two or three times less than the price on restaurant menus. They also sometimes sell top quality linguine and spaghetti from Gragnano.

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