Naples – Vomero
Vomero is one of the poshest residential areas in Naples. It’s up on top of the hill, away from the madding crowds. The hillside is very steep, literally a high wall that keeps the plebs out. Traditionally people use a funicular train to move up and down to the old city below (you can take the metro now too).
I don’t come up here very often but in 2015, I was working in Vomero for a couple of days so I tried out a few of the local institutions. The first two are near or on Via Cimarosa, by the funicular station of the same name.
Friggitoria Vomero (Elementary A), 44 Via Cimarosa (opposite the funicular)
This is one of the best friggitoria’s in Naples. Their fritture include Frittatine di Maccheroni (fried pasta with egg), Suppli di Riso and Arancino (both kinds of rice balls), Crocche (potato croquettes) and Graffa (sweet doughnut made of flour and potato) amongst others.
I had a suppli and…
…a frittatine di maccheroni with a cold beer which was oh so good (A).
Pizzeria Gorizia (High Intermediate B+), 29 Gian Lorenzo Bernini, www.gorizia1916.com
This is an old school (since 1915) posh restaurant and pizzeria with waiters in formal white tunics.
The Margherita di Bufala I had was made with fresh pomodorini. It was good, but I prefer a tomato sauce base for more consistent flavour (B).
To drink a bottle of Forst (B), a German beer I’d not had before.
Total cost €16.50. An experience worth having but I’ll try something else off the menu if I come again.
Jorudan Sushi (High Intermediate A), 288 Via Torquato Tasso, www.facebook.com/Jorudan-Sushi
It’s a bit of a hike up the hill but it’s worth it for the best Japanese food I know of in Naples. This is probably because the chef, a friendly English speaking chap, is actually Japanese. That’s not to say chefs of other nationalities can’t make good sushi but I have yet to come across one who can match the best Japanese chefs. As he put it, ‘they have different hands’.
I had the Chirashizushi Salmone which was orgasmic (A+).
I followed up with two salmon and avocado Temaki, also wonderful (A). With a jug of hot sake and a beer the bill came to €33 which I think is very reasonable.
I lived in Japan for a few years and became addicted to sushi. There’s very little that makes me happier than reliving favourite food memories like this. I just wish the restaurant was easier to get to.
Grand Hotel Parker’s, 135 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, www.grandhotelparkers.it
This five star hotel has a lot of history, and an amazing view of Chiaia and the Gulf of Naples, which is the reason I came. I can’t afford to stay here but I can just about afford to eat in the George Restaurant or have a drink in the Bidder’s Bar which are both on the top floor in the roof garden.
Unfortunately I was seated right next to a loud American family who were making a real racket. I moved to the bar only to be sat next to two Italian men arguing. I gave up at this point and went elsewhere to eat. On the plus side it saved me a bit of money and I still got to see the view even if it was just for a few minutes. It would be a good place to go with a date and watch the sun go down.