I only had two nights and three days here but I did my best to eat around as much as possible in that time. The next post describes a food walk where you can try several different kinds of food and drink but here I’m focussing on restaurants influenced by the Portuguese empire.
All the restaurants mentioned are on this Google map.
Fernando’s (Intermediate B+), 9 Praia de Hac Sa, no credit cards or reservations are accepted, www.fernando-restaurant.com
This rustic Portuguese restaurant (a local institution since 1986) came recommended by Anthony Bourdain and also my good friend Tommy K who knows his grub.
Hac Sa beach is a bit of a trek from town but it’s worth it for the good food and fun atmosphere. This was defintiely my best restaurant experience in Macau.
The house speciality is the Leitao Assado no Forno, or suckling pig, which is delicious (B+). It came with chips and a green salad (both B), but I added on a tomato salad as well. Unexpectedly the tomatoes were fantastic (A).
With it, a bottle of okay red from Lisbon called Porta 6 (B-)…
…which was decanted at the table.
I finished with a hefty slice of flan (B) and something strong and sweet from a tiny barrel. My memory doesn’t recall what it was, only that it was good! (B+).
Taxis seemed to be a problem for some reason (maybe prebook a cab for your return) but a friend of the restaurant drove me home for a fee and kindly stopped off for me to see some of the casino sights on the way back (see previous post).
A Vencedora (Intermediate B+), Edificio Pak Nin Son, 264 Rua do Campo
A local colleague brought me here for lunch. They’ve been serving good homemade Portuguese food since 1918. Nothing special, just plain, good honest food.
I enjoyed their croquettes (B+). Portuguese Pastéis or Bolo de Bacalhau tend to be made with mashed potato without the addition of Béchamel sauce, unlike Spanish croquetas.
A main of plain grilled sardines (B+) and a bit of salad saw me right.
Fat Siu Lau (Intermediate B), 64 Rua da Felicidade, www.fatsiulau.com.mo
This old restaurant has been a local institution since 1903, currently recommended by Fodor’s. I came here on my first night hungry for a change from Chinese food.
The house speciality is ‘Pombo Asado’ aka ‘Shek Ki Superb Roasted Pigeon’, but I was hankering after seafood so I started with a plate of clams, hoping they’d be plain but found them just acceptable in a sauce (B).
I followed up with the grilled prawns in a garlic and butter sauce, or Camarãos Grelhados Servidos con Molho de Alho e Manteiga which were okay but not particularly inspiring (B).
I washed these down with a couple of cans of Portuguese Sagres beer (B).
For dessert I was intrigued to see Norwegian Almond Krumkake Rolls on the menu (those sailors do get around). Krumkaker are waffles that are bent into cones whilst still hot, similar to Sicilian cannoli, and served with whipped cream as they are here or perhaps used as ice-cream cones.
Being in possession of both part Norwegian and sweet-toothed these were hard to refuse, luckily as they were the best thing I had in the restaurant (B+).
Margaret’s Café e Nata (Intermediate B+), Edificio Kam Loi
Portuguese custard tarts are one of my favourite things in life and this is one of the best places in Macau to eat them.
According to popular wisdom, Lord Stow’s bakery is the best to have them but I didn’t have time to go over the other side of the island to his place). Fortunately this rival establishment, opened by his ex-wife, does a mean pastel de nata as well (B+).
A food walk next!