Archive for March 6, 2019

Valencia – Ciutat Vella – La Seu – restaurants

Posted in Ciutat Vella, La Seu, Spain, Valencia, Valenciana Comunidad with tags , , , , on March 6, 2019 by gannet39

This post is about restaurants in La Seu, the area around the cathedral in the old town. I’ve also written separate posts on La Seu for tapas bars, stuff to see in the area, and drinking horchata. My map is here.

For some reason (ease of parking under Plaça de la Reina?), whenever I meet my local friends Angeles & Juan for a meal, it’s always at a restaurant in La Seu!

I review four very good restaurants below, in reverse chronological order. I’d go with La Lola if I had to choose, because they have tables outside.

From May 2017…

Seu Xerea (Advanced B+), 4 Calle Conde de Almodovar, seuxerea.com

Seu Xerea is owned by a British chef Steve Anderson. To my embarrassment he caught me eating olives with a fork while I was waiting for the others but thankfully he let me off for letting the side down!

Angeles, Juan and I all had the €49 Menu de Degustacion (four small plates, two mains, two desserts) and additional €28 wine matching (six 100ml glasses).

I was far too busy having fun to make any notes (the purpose of this blog is to entertain me when I’m by myself) so I can’t comment on which course or glass of wine was the best but I can tell you it was all very good.

Anderson is known for his Valencian Oyster with Almond and Iberian Pork Belly.

Next came Mediterranean Shrimp with Cucumber and Apple.

Something else not mentioned on the menu matched with a local white called Angosto.

Un-pasteurised Ricotta Gnocchi with Egg Yolk came with Casanova, a Ribeiro.

Roast Octopus with Spicy Chorizo Breadcrumbs came with Edetana, a white Garnacha/Viognier blend.

Fish of unknown type with Bouillabaisse Stock with a glass of Albarino called Ex Libris.

Roast Lamb with Chargrilled Red Pepper needed a glass of red Ribera del Duero called Valtravieso.

Strawberries with Pistachio and Cava went well with a Moscatel called Alambre.

Dark Chocolate Mousse with Cherries finished us off.

I’ll be back for the €35 tapas menu next time.

Seu Xerea is handily opposite Café de las Horas, a favourite bar of mine (see La Seu tapas bars post) so you could start or finish there.

Also in 2017 I came here for lunch…

Abadía d’Espí (High Intermediate B), 5 Plaça de l´Arquebisbe, www.abadiadespi.com

This is a posh place in quiet square. The service was good and the wine list is extensive. The food was fine if I recall (all B) but nothing stunning. It’s the weakest of the four in this post but still good.

To begin I had the Hatillo de Langostino y Queso Fresco, or langoustine and fresh cheese in a deep-fried bag of filo pastry. Hatillos seem to be a thing here as La Lola below does them as well.

I had the Arroz Meloso de Cortijo: Caldo de Cocido, Longanzina, Jamon, Panceta, Garbanzos or a wet ‘farmhouse’ paella made with stew broth, sausages, cured ham, bacon and chick peas.

To drink, a half-litre bottle of my old friend, Les Alcusses red wine for €10.50. The total cost was €30.85.

From September 2014…

La Salvaora (Advanced A), 19 Carrer de Calatrava, www.lasalvaora.com

I celebrated my birthday here with my friends Angeles, Juan, Karen and Nicky but I can’t remember much about it!

Five of us had the tasting menu which consisted of Braised White Asparagus with a Vinaigrette of Cherries, Tuna Tartar with Ginger and Peach, Turbot Stuffed with Aubergine in a Veloute of Langoustines, Confit of Iberico Pork with Mash and to finish, Yogurt with White Chocolate Cream, Tonka Beans and Red Fruits. All I remember about the food is that it was all very good!

Just a stones throw away from La Salvaora is the lovely Placa de Negret which is full of bars where you can sit outside. The most famous bar here is Cafe Negrito but it’s probably easier to get a seat at one of the other bars at busy times.

From June 2012…

La Lola (Intermediate B), 8 Calle de la Subida del Toledano, www.lalolarestaurante.com

You’ll find this friendly modern restaurant down a small back street next to the cathedral. I first came here on a warm summer evening at the suggestion of my dear old friend Angeles who is a local lass.

Although I’d been aware of the restaurant before, I’d mentally put myself off going because their greeters hustle for custom on the street; generally a turn off for me because it smacks of desperation. I realise now this was a little unfair because the food was absolutely fine (including the very reasonably priced set menu), it’s more that the place is a little hard to find.

In terms of the food, the Salmorejo was very tasty (A) and the attractive looking Goats Cheese starter was nice as well (B), as was the Bacalao with sauteed vegetables (B+). I can’t remember what we drank due to the fact I hadn’t seen Angie for about 5 years and we were having a good old chat! I remember it as a good place though, somewhere I’d definitely go back to.

Which I did in 2014 with Angie and her other half, Juan. Again the food was nicely presented and original but occasionally a bit hit and miss in terms of flavour. However I remember really liking the Meloso (wet paella) with snails, quail and mushrooms. Juan selected an excellent Merlot from Penedes to go with it.

A great spot that I would definitely like to go to again, which is true of all the restaurants in this post.

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