Phrae is a town of about eighteen thousand people in the northern region of Thailand. The historical culture and cuisine of the region is called Lanna.
Lanna cuisine shares certain dishes with neighboring Shan State in Myanmar, and with Laos. As in north-eastern Thailand, glutinous rice is preferred rather than jasmine rice.
I’d give you a map of the town but it’s pointless as the restaurant address doesn’t come up on Google maps. However it is very famous locally so if you ask around I’m sure you’ll find it.
Khaosoi Che Lek (Elementary A), 35 Nam Kue Road Nai Wiang Subdistrict Mueang Prae District, Phrae
A simple place with a pleasant atmosphere specialising in Khaosoi, a Lanna meat noodle soup made throughout Myanmar, Laos and northern Thailand.
It’s reckoned that Kahosoi was originally brought from China by the ancestors of the Chin Haw, Thai Chinese people whose forbears migrated to Thailand via Myanmar or Laos. About a third of the Chin Haw were Muslim so their version of Khaosoi featured chicken or beef.
Che Lek is the name of the lady who owns the restaurant. Her Khaosoi is made with egg noodles, both boiled and some deep-fried to garnish, with beef in a curry-like sauce (although I believe there is a chicken option too), a slab of congealed blood, chopped green beans, lettuce and coriander. Pickled mustard greens, known as Phakkat Sophon amongst other names, are served on the side.
The restaurant is also known for Moo Satae, grilled fermented pork served with peanut sauce. The original Indonesian satay is of course made with chicken but various meat and even vegetable versions can be found in Thailand.
Fantastic food once more. I wish I could eat it all over again.
A lightening visit to Nan next…