La Gomera – hiking around Agulo

Agulo is the next town along the coast from Hermigua, about ten minutes drive around the headland. It’s half the size of Hermigua but prettier and more compact. It also has some great hikes and sights. Map here.

Mirador de Abrante at the top of the sheer cliffs behind the town, a climb of 600 meters, 400 of which were in just 1.5km. By comparison Scarfell Pike the highest mountain in England is 978 metres high.

You can just make out the mirador at the very top of these pictures.

Described by the guide as ‘vertiginous’ this is not an ascent for the faint-hearted or the unfit. Thankfully I’d prepared for it by walking up the fifteen flights in my block of flats several times for a few days beforehand but I was still the last one up behind my slightly younger, fitter friends.

The views were stunning of course, both of the pretty town below and the summit of Mount Teide across the water in Tenerife.

Gomerans joke that Teide is their volcano as they get to see it more than the Tinerfiños (people from Tenerife) whose view from the base is obscured by cloud more often than not.

Here’s a video I took halfway up that gives you an idea of the path. And another about three quarters of the way.

The view from the glass Mirador de Abrante at the top is stunning. Video here.

Some of us could handle the glass floor better than others though.

We stopped for a beer but didn’t bother to eat as we were quickly joined by whole coach parties of tourists who had cheated by driving up.

However we were treated to a demonstration of Silbo, the famous whistling language that historically the locals used to communicate messages over distance and rough terrain. Videos here and here.

From here we walked across an eroded ferrous landscape.

You could easily imagine you were on the surface of Mars, but with the occasional sign of life. These abrupt changes in topography are one of the fascinating things about walking in La Gomera.

The path eventually became a cobbled donkey trail…

… that took a circuitous route back down to Agulo.

Although the descent was much gentler than the way we came up it was still quite tough going for our tired legs. We got back to Agulo eventually though.

And as usual the flora along our route was fascinating and varied.

Once back in town we made a beeline to this restaurant for lunch…

Restaurante La Vieja Escuela (Elementary C+), 2 Calle Poeta Trujillo Armas, restaurantelaviejaescuela.es

Once the local school this is now a pleasant traditional restaurant where you can sit outside and get a view over the town.

Recommended by our AirBnB host Hector as the best place to eat fish we were a little disappointed by the quality of our food with frozen veg out of a bag and undercooked chips.

However Simon enjoyed his stewed rabbit (a local speciality)…

… and the grilled Dorada was enjoyable (B), with Papas Arrugadas, with red Mojo of course.

The local Gomeran white from Vallehermoso, a 2018 cosecha called Cinco Varas, was pretty good though (B).

This was our last whole day in La Gomera before heading home.

We all loved our time here and would happily go again. Till next time!

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