One evening I took a walk to San Lorenzo, a student and working class district just to the north east of Termini station. Walking east along the side of Termini station till you come to this wonderful Rationalist water tower. Shortly afterwards there’s an underpass that lets you go under the tracks.
Looking at the stickers on the backs of the road signs here, you shouldn’t be any doubt as to which football team is supported in the neighbourhood.
San Lorenzo is quite a lively area thanks to the students. This marching band was livening things up a bit when I was there.
My first stop was Giufà Libreria Café www.libreriagiufa.it at 38 Via degli Aurunci to browse the books and sink a couple of aperitivos.
My main reason for coming here though was to check out this famous pizzeria…
Pizzeria Formula 1 (Elementary B), 13 Via degli Equi, www.facebook.com/pizzeriaformula1roma
I started with a couple of fritti; a Fiore di Zucca (courgette flower) and a Suppli Nduja (rice ball with spicy sausage meat from Calabria), both good (B).
Then came their ‘Bufa’ (a margherita made with buffalo mozzarella). For me it was halfway between a fluffy Pizza Napoletana and a thin Pizza Romana. It certainly wasn’t as thin as the bufa I had at San Remo in Testaccio which for me remains the defining Pizza Romana. I still enjoyed it though (B).
A nice bar to go to afterwards is Rive Gauche, a 20s speakeasy type place at 43 Via dei Sabelli.
When you’ve been to Rome as many times as I have, it makes a nice change to experience a real residential neighbourhood like San Lorenzo as a change from the touristy areas.
Another neighbourhood away from the centre next…