Rome – Centro Storico – things to see in Regola

Regola is the district by the river thats due south of Piazza Navona (in Parione) and Largo di Torre Argentina (in San Eustachio) and just to the west of the Jewish Quarter (Sant Angelo). Map of the neighbourhoods here, my Google map here.

This post used to be part of a post called ‘An early start at Caffè Roscioli’ but it got too big and I’ve given Roscioli it’s own post. You can read it here should you want advice for a great breakfast and lunch in the area.

After breakfast you could go to the Mercato di Campo de’ Fiori which starts at 9am.

There is another bakery at one end of the market square. I want to go to Forno Campo de ‘Fiori at 22 Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, because I have heard that their Pizza Rossa edges out Roscioli’s (although they are members of the same family), but it was closed when I went unfortunately.

If you have a little time to kill before the market gets going, you could check out this hidden courtyard around the corner, the Arco degli Acetari (vinegar-makers arch) at 19 Via del Pellegrino, which features on a lot of postcards. Video here.

After lunch at Roscioli I went to Galleria Spada, the Spada family gallery of 17th century paintings and sculpture (including work by Titan, Guercino and Gentileschi), at 13 Piazza Capo di Ferro. I got in for the reduced price of €2.50 with my Roma Pass. Video here.

Out in the courtyard is La Prospettiva del Borromini, a Baroque optical illusion of what looks like a long colonnade but which in fact is only nine meters in length.


They also have a very fat cat known as Lady Spada.

If you’ve got a soft spot for cats, as I have, then it’s just a short distance to Largo di Torre Argentina where a huge colony of feral cats lives amongst the archaeological ruins.

There’s a cat sanctuary here, the Colonia Felina di Torre Argentina, where there are cats everywhere you look.

Flopped cats

If you’d rather just go shopping, check out Dispensabile, a really nice homewares shop at 37-39 Via d’Aracoeli. If you’re into Italian furniture design then also check out Arcon at 104 Via della Scrofa and Fortuna Roma at 55 Via di Monte Brianzo which are slightly further afield but still in the historic centre.

Back to the hotel for a siesta, then it’s time for dinner…

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