Seville – Casco Antiguo – staying in Alfalfa

Alfalfa is another central neighbourhood in the Casco Antiguo. It lies due south of Las Setas, and of Calle Imagen and its continuations, extending to the town hall area. It’s a good neighbourhood to stay in as there are lots of good bars and restaurants and you can get to most of the tourist sights on foot fairly quickly. On a couple of occasions I’ve managed to escape the clutches of my employer, who usually stations us in Triana, and rented an AirBnB here for the weekend.

My Google map of the city here, map of the barrio here.

Of my AirBnB experiences, I most recommend staying with Walter at 4 Calle Dormitorio. He’s a friendly, helpful chap, a star host, and his rooms are clean, spacious and cheap (£30 a night in 2018). He has a flatmate and about four other rooms available to rent so there’s a good chance of meeting people.

Lets start with breakfast…

Bar Europa (Intermediate A), 35 Calle Siete Revuelta

Bar Europa is a classic tiled bar which has been around since 1925.

It’a good spot for breakfasts as well as tapas later in the day.

For brekky I always have the classic Sevillano breakfast of a Café con Leche, a Zumo Natural made with freshly squeezed Seville oranges, and a Tostado drizzled with olive oil and topped with cheese or ham.

Panypiu (Intermediate A), 15 Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro,

A modern cafe and bakery which has everything you need for breakfast, and more.

As luck would have it, Walter’s place is a stonesthrow away from my favourite bar de tapas in this part of town…

Los Coloniales (Intermediate B+), 1 Calle Dormitorio,

An old classic that deservedly gets lots of positive reviews and mentions in guides. The aged wooden bar area has lots of atmosphere and the rustic food is consistently good. Portions are cheap and generous. I advise arriving early, just when they open, to snag a table on the popular terrace.

On a visit in 2015, I had the Plato del Dia (daily special); Timbal Camperos (B), a gratin of ham, sausage, potato and various other veg with Salmorejo drizzled over the top. My favourite plate though was the classic Sevillano dish of Solomillo al Whisky; pork tenderloin in a whisky sauce (B+). I love the roasted whole cloves of garlic. It was so much better than the similar Sollomillo Ajo I had at Sol y Sombra (see my Eating in Triana post). Finally, Pionones, a typical dessert of Granada (B+) with two parts: a thin layer of pastry fermented with different kinds of syrup and rolled into a cylinder, and a topping of toasted cream.

All the red wines I tasted were fine (B) but nothing out of this world. The tapas and four glasses of wine, including a PX to finish, came to a measly €17.20. Another plus is that all the staff who work here are very nice people, which always makes the food taste better for me. Already looking forward to the next time I can go. There is a second location but this is the best one by all accounts.

Bar Estrella (Intermediate B), 3 Calle Estrella,

Yet another old bar (since 1936) hidden down a back street. All the food is fine (B/C) but they are particularly known for their Bacalao Estrella, a saltcod tapa served with tomato and beetroot sauces (B+), so maybe just come for that and move on.

And if you love ham…

Patio San Eloy (Intermediate B+), 9 Calle San Eloy,

If you want a takeaway lunch on the go, try a big ham sandwich (Bocadillo de Jamon) from this famous jamoneria. You can also sit down if you like, or buy ham to take home.

It’s worth putting your head in for a look just to see the ceramic tiled interior and sample the frenetic activity.

There are plenty more places of course, this post is a work in progress.

Food shopping next!

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