Besides the steakhouses (see previous post) there are several other good places to eat in San Telmo, plus a few you should probably avoid. Here are reviews of three restaurants I’ve been to. You’ll find everywhere mentioned and more on my city map).
Comedor Nikkai (Intermediate A), 732 Avenida Independencia
I adore Japanese food and when I find an authentic place I’m all over it. What could be more authentic than the dining room of the Asociación Japonesa en la Argentina www.facebook.com, a cultural association where you can also take classes in all things Japanese (martial arts, flower arranging etc).
I always come here for lunch when I’m in town. Their set menus taste pretty good and are great value (B+). On this occasion I had Menu 3 which involved Toriteri (fried chicken with teriyaki sauce), Harumaki (spring rolls with sweet sauce), Gohan (white rice), three pieces of Makimono sushi roll (salmon, cream cheese, cucumber), a salad and a bowl of Misoshiru (soya paste soup) for a piffling cost of $100 which included a 10% discount for paying in cash. A bottle of Crystal beer took the bill to $140, just over £7.
The entrance is along a corridor down the side of the cultural association’s front door and you wouldn’t know it was there unless you looked carefully. It’s well worth the effort of finding it though.
Chochan (Intermediate A), 672 Piedras, NOW CLOSED!
I really liked this place in 2014 and was gutted to find it closed in 2018. If I were to open a restaurant it would be just like this one!
Everything on the menu is pork based (finally, a change from beef) and they have a good selection of wines which the English speaking waitress will be happy to tell you about. The atmosphere is bright and modern and they really should have more customers, but being tucked down a side street off the beaten track probably means they don’t get many walk ups.
I started with the Croquetas de Papa y Morcillla, aka potato and blood sausage croquettes, which were unsightly but very tasty! (B+).
I followed up with the Panceta Braseada sandwich, pork belly with grated carrots and peanut butter. The first bite, which included some crispy crackling, was a revelation, one of the best things I’ve ever eaten! (A++). However when the crackling ran out it became a bit cloying and hard to finish (B-). More crackling please.
Señor Telmo (Intermediate C), 756 Defensa
I’m a pizza snob and am totally unimpressed by the quality of pizzas in Baires, despite its huge Italian immigrant population. Can’t remember what this one was called but it was horrible (C-). Just look at the luminous sausage! Even though this pizzeria has a good rep, it’s one to avoid I reckon.
Some nice old bars and cafes next!