I only spent around thirty hours in Ravenna but I think I nailed some pretty good spots in the short time I was here. My previous post was dedicated to Trattoria al Gallo which I’m almost certain is the best place in town. This post is about all my other food and drink experiences during my short stay. You’ll find everywhere mentioned on my Google map.
I had a great lunch at this first place…
Ristorante La Gardèla (Intermediate A), 3 Via Ponte Marino, www.ristorantelagardela.com
This is a popular trattoria serving good local food at a reasonable price. Their pleasant front terrace filled up with locals pretty soon after I arrived. The service I got was highly professional throughout.
I had the €25 Menu Romagnolo which began with the Tagliere del Buongustaio con Prodotti Tipici di Romagna, a gourmet platter of typical products from the historical sub-region of Romagna (the south-western portion of Emilia-Romagna), of which Ravenna is a part. Besides various kinds of charcuterie (proscuitto, capocollo, cured pancetta, salami), the platter included Squaquerone (in the radicchio leaf in the picture) which was a new cheese for me. It reminded me of a less stringy version of Burrata Stracciatella (my post here), although a bit saltier and more sour-tasting.
Squaquerone is best eaten on a Piadina, a thin flatbread made simply with white flour, lard (or olive oil), salt and water. Piadine are also from Romagna originally but my first experience of them was actually in Sydney (my post here).
Next came Cappelletti Caserecci al Ragù Tradizionale, the local ‘little hats’ again in a Bolognese-like sauce.
After this came La Grigliata, a mixed grill of various cuts of pork and vegetables.
To finish, Crema di Ravenna, from an old recipe (‘Artusiana’, whatever that means).
The menu included water and a final coffee but I added on a cheeky bottle of local Sangiovese Superiore Riserva which bumped up the bill a bit, but it was still good value.
La Gardèla was very good but my first choice was actually Ristorante Ca’ de Vèn at 24 Via Corrado Ricci which looks like a local classic, but sadly they were temporarily closed due to Covid. Hopefully you’ll have better luck.
For a cheap lunch option you could try one of the takeaway Piadina shops around town. La Piadina del Melarancio at 31 Via IV Novembre was high on my list. It’s a simple city-centre spot that looks like an excellent place to try Romagna’s classic snack.
With more time I’d have checked out the Mercato Coperto, the old covered market which has been converted into snazzy food shops and bars.
For an aperitif or digestivo, I can recommend BonTon which is down a tunnel at 103 Via Camillo Benso Cavour. It’s a bar with lots of outside tables in a pleasant courtyard off the main shopping street. They make a decent Negroni and play a really cool soundtrack of funk and soul.
Some of the sights of Ravenna next!