Rome – Centro Storico – my favourite restaurant in Testaccio

I’ve dedicated this post to my favourite restaurant in Testaccio. For other restaurants in the area see my previous post on Eating out in Testaccio. You can find them all on my Google map and here’s a map of the neighbourhood.

Felice a Testaccio (High Intermediate A), 29 Via Mastro Giorgio,, open every day, best to reserve.

An institution since 1936, Felice is listed in Listed in 1001 Restaurants You Must Experience Before You Die and has a Michelin bib gourmand. It’s so famous that I had real problems getting in on my first visit in 2018 but I finally managed to book a table after several attempts. I did notice however that some people managed to get a table without a reservation by arriving as soon as they opened, so you could try your luck.

Their menu changes every day which is always a good sign. However I was here to try the classics…

Felice is reputed to be one of the best places in the city to try the famous Roman pasta dish, Cacio e Pepe. It’s made very simply by tossing tonnarelli pasta (square spaghetti) in pecorino cheese, black pepper and a little of the pasta water to help bind it. Simple but very delicious (B+). Video here.

To drink a bottle of Castel de Paolis ‘I Quattro Mori’ blended red, which is one of the top ten most highly rated Lazio IGT wines (based on critic scores).

For the second course, Abbachio al Forno con Patatas, roast suckling lamb with roast potatoes (A).

And to finish some great strawberries (A).

And finally a quality barrique distallate made from Nebbiolo grapes, Berta Tre Soli Tre Grappa, as recommended by my friendly waitress (B+).

With a beer and some water the bill came to €91, which isn’t cheap, but it was all top quality.

I went again in 2020 for my final meal before flying home after two months of travelling in Italy, so I made it a special one. I started with some super fresh Mozzarella di Bufala, one of my favourite things in life.

Then their signature dish, Mezze Maniche alla Gricia aka ‘short sleeves’ pasta with pecorino and pork cheek. Simple but very effective.

To drink, a bottle of Frascati Superiore, one of Lazio’s finest white wines.

And for the second course, Frittura di Calamari e Mazzancolli e un contorno di Cicoria, or lightly deep fried squid and prawns with a side of wilted chicory.

And for dessert, the best Tiramisu of the trip (including its birthplace, post here), and a glass of sweet Asti Spumante.

And to finish, a final espresso and a double helping of my favourite commercial digestive bitter, Amaro di Capo.

So, a blissful end to my trip, however the blog goes on. Staying in Testaccio next…

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