Andalusia – eating and drinking in Osuna

There’s not a huge choice of places to eat in Osuna but here are a few good ones, in order of preference. My map is here.

Doña Guadalupe (High Intermediate A), 6 Plaza Guadalupe

This is the best, and probably most expensive, place in town, located in a hidden square just a few minutes’ walk from the Hotel Palacio Marques De La Gomera. You can sit outside under the porticos in the square but I chose to sit inside as it was a bit more comfortable.

On the waiter’s suggestion I began with the Surtido Iberico (three kinds of charcuterie with cured cheese, grilled peppers and some toast with local olive oil) which was great (A) but had I known it was going to be so big, and at a cost of €20, I wouldn’t have ordered it for just one person.

It was nice to see my old friend Overo (B), a red from nearby Lebrija, which was good value for €15.

For my segundo; Perdiz de Monte en su Jugo, or mountain partridge in its own gravy (B+).

And to finish, Flan Naranja con Arroz con Leche, aka orange caramel pudding with rice pudding (A).

With this a glass of ‘Espuny’ Pedro Ximenez (A).

Dessert came with some complimentary Pastitas Caseras (homemade shortbread biscuits) and two bottles of digestifs; Pacharan (a Basque liqueur made with sloes) and Aguardiente des Hierbas (like grappa with added herbs).

Total cost was a somewhat excessive €71 although this included a beer. You don’t have to be as greedy as me of course.

My second favourite place was this modern tapas bar…

Taberna Jicales (Intermediate B+), 11 Calle Esparteros

Tapas I tried included, in order of preference, Carrilladas aka pork cheeks (A), Pulpo Gallego or Galician style octopus (B+), Piruletas also known as chorizo lollipops (B+), Miloja de Berenjena or battered and deep-fried slices of aubergine enclosing some brie-like cheese (B-), Croquetas de Cabrales y Sidra aka Asturian blue cheese and cider croquettes (B-).

I was less keen on the Solomillo al Pedro Ximenez which is pork loin in a PX wine reduction (C+) and the Mini Hamburguesa (C). All of these were very cheap at only €2 or €3 a pop.

This next place is the local institution…

Casa Curro (Intermediate B), 5 Plaza Salitre

The food here is fine but nothing amazing. On my first evening I ate in their restaurant at the back. As you’d expect from an olive oil producing town, their olives are pretty good. I had their mixed Croquetas to start and followed up with the Rabo de Toro, stewed oxtail, and had a bottle of Ramon Bilbao Rioja to drink. The Flan de Chocolate finished things off. (All B).

On another night I enjoyed their Almejas de Carril en Salsa de la Casa (Galician clams in the house sauce) and their Salmorejo (bread and tomato soup with ham, egg and olive oil), along with a bottle of Barbadillo white wine (all B again).

You can get a very cheap brandy for a night cap from their tapas bar at the front.

There is no outdoor area Casa Curro so they have opened this other smaller tapas bar over the square where you can sit at tables on the street…

Taberna Currito Chico (Elementary A), 9 Plaza Salitre

I much prefer the ambience at this little tapas bar to that of its big sister over the road. The food seems a little better too. Certainly the Carrillada con Queso al Pedro Ximenez, pork cheek with cheese and a sweet wine reduction, is a winner (A). Tables are hard to snag though so arrive early.

El Molinillo (Elementary C+), 6 Plaza Mayor

This tiny tapas bar on the main square is run by a nice old boy. You could stand inside but the terrace on the square is a good spot for sinking a cold one while you watch the town at play in the evenings. Although the Jamon is good (B+), I wasn’t that impressed by the Solomillo Ajillo aka pork loin in garlic (C-).

And a couple to avoid…

Cafeteria Arco (High Elementary C), 8 Piazza Cervantes

Came here for lunch and ordered the Butifarra hoping for a grilled version of my favourite Catalan sausage. Got some thinly sliced cold version on white bread that was more akin to garlic sausage (C-) for which they charged me €3.

Vera (High Elementary C-), Calle Alfonso XII

Although this was #6 on TripAdvisor and the fifth most reviewed in 2017, the tapa of Bacalao Frito I had here failed to impress (C-).

For hotel room picnickers…

…you could get a roast chicken to go from Pollos Asados La Fama at 25 Calle Alfonso XII.

The old bakery Panadería Moyá (since 1920) at 60 Calle Sor Angela de la Cruz has some nice bread in the window.

And for those sweet of tooth, you can get cakes and biscuits from the nuns either from Religiosas Madres Concepcionistas at 1 Calle Sevilla or from Monasterio de la Encarnación at 2 Plaza la Encarnación.

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