Seville – Casco Antiguo – San Vicente

San Vicente is the barrio by the river to the south of San Lorenzo in my previous post. It ends at Calle Carlos XII to the south. Map of barrios here and a Google map of the city here.

La Azotea de Sevilla (High Intermediate A), 31 Jesus del Gran Poder, laazoteasevilla.com, open every day.

This is my third favourite tapas bar after Puratasca (see my Triana post) and Eslava (previous post). It’s the original and perhaps best of a small chain of three Azoteas.

Having read several reviews from the summer, I was expecting it to be packed so I arrived at exactly when they opened at 20.30. I needn’t have bothered as it was the quieter winter season.

The service is exemplary (A+) especially from Juan Carlos who was my server at the bar. Multilingual menus are available. They even had a menu in Hangul for Sem my Korean neighbour at the bar.

Seafood would be a good choice here but I was in the mood for meat and I don’t like to mix the two.

The Jamon Iberico is excellent as you would expect (A).

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The Carrillada Iberica was just sublime (A+).

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And the Solomillo Frisona was pretty okay too (B).

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The wines I tried by the glass were alright but not amazing…

First a glass of a Merlot called Delirio (B).

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Also a Toro called Encomienda which I enjoyed the most (B+).

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And Garum from Cadiz (B), a blend of Merlot, Syrah and a french grape called Petit Verdot.

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The food with three glasses of wine and a Carlos III brandy came to only €30 which was very reasonable.

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Around the corner from Azotea there’s a nice little square called Plaza de la Gavidia which three bars…

Bodega Dos de Mayo (Intermediate B), 6 Plaza de la Gavidia, www.bodegadosdemayo.es

The most famous and biggest tapas bar in the square. I came here with two friends and we had Gambas Plancha, Boquerones Ayamonte, Ortlguillas de Chipiona (sea anemones!), Chirlas Gorda and a bottle of Donastia Vivanco Crianza for $62. The food is fine but this next place is better.

Bodega Amarillo Albero (Intermediate A) 5 Plaza de la Gavidia

Just over the road from Dos de Mayo above. It doesn’t do as much business as it’s larger neighbour but I think their cuisine is superior. And it’s a nicer building. I’d definitely come here first next time.

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El Sanedrin (Intermediate C), 8 Plaza de Gavidia

I can’t say much about this place except that it’s the least interesting looking of the three and a Magno costs only €2.50, which is very cheap.

One evening at dusk I was walking back to the hotel from Plaza de Gavidia and got as far as Plaza de las Armas where I saw the air was full of tiny creatures. Not knowing what they were (perhaps a swarm of large insects?) I asked a passing local and he told me they were “batmans” which tickled me. It was very surprising to see so many bats at such a busy road junction but I presume they live in the trees and buildings around the square.

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