Granada is not short on atmosphere, and this definitely translates to its restaurants. It’s easy to focus on the tapas (previous post) and miss all the amazing sit down spots. I’ve added an ice cream shop at the end as well as that’s what I usually do for dessert.
Everywhere mentioned is on my map.
Claustro (Advanced B), 31 Calle Gran Vía de Colón, inside the Hotel AC Santa Paula, www.hotelacpalaciodesantapaula.com
This is a high end but not overly expensive restaurant located in the porticoed courtyard of a former cloister, now a posh hotel.
The bland exterior of the building deceptively hides the beauty of what lies inside.
Service is exemplary, most of the time, the menu is very playful and the food is imaginatively presented, but isn’t always as tasty as it could be.
I went with my friend Nicky, a fellow lover of fine food. To begin she had a glass of her much loved Rueda Verdejo and I had one of my favourite commercial Oloroso sherry, Alfonso by Gonzalez Byass (A).
The amuse bouches were quite imaginative. First, a wire tree bearing green ‘fruit’ made of goats’ cheese (B+)…
… followed by an ‘orio’ tasting of chocolate, coffee and curry flavours (B) accompanied by a blini on a spoon topped with aubergine ‘caviar’ (B+).
Some nice Pan Cristal with local olive oil was a reminder of normality.
These came with a glass of Rebujito; an Anadalucian aperitif similar to a Sherry Cobbler, which was a new concept for both of us. It’s made differently in different cities, and I’m still not completely sure what the components were, but I guess it was sparkling wine with a shot of Manzanilla sherry.
I didn’t grade the remaining courses as I was in relaxation mode, but I had…
Remojón Granadino; normally a simple salad of orange, oil, and salt or sugar but here with the addition of salt-cod, gherkins and some kind of mousse. Pretty but strange.
The Envuelto de Rabo de Toro con sus Callos y Espuma de Huevo Frito arrived looking like a foamy soup…
… but upon investigation was found to contain oxtail and tripe raviolis covered by a fried egg foam.
It all makes sense when you remember that the idea is to try and make ingredients look like something else so that they surprise you. It’s a nice idea but sadly it sometimes comes at the cost of flavour.
The following dishes of Faisan a las Especias en Dos Servicios, pheasant with spices in two (tiny) servings, and Cordero Segureño, Aceitunes Verdes y Velo de Leche de Cabra or local lamb with green olives with a veil of goat’s milk, were unremarkable and not worthy of a photo.
To drink we went with a bottle of my trusted Juan Gil from Murcia (B+) which helped us finish the Tabla de Quesos which was something of an overkill. No desserts were needed.
Total cost €72 per person which is par for the course. It was a very pleasant evening in beautiful surroundings but the food was more about form than flavour in my opinion. I’d go again if someone else was paying!
Tajin Elvira (Low Intermediate B), 46 Calle Elvira
Eating or drinking tea at a Morrocan restaurant or teteria in the Albacin neighbourhood is pretty much a must do when in Granada. This one is great for atmosphere and pretty good for food but some of the others on my map may be better.
I had the all-day Menu del Dia for €8.50 which lets you select one dish from a list of five for each of two courses. I went with the Berejenas, hoping for some roasted aubergines in yogurt but instead getting some bitter tasting ones in some kind of red sauce that didn’t really cut it for me (C). I wasn’t too fussed about their Morrocan bread either (C) so I left most of it.
On the other hand the Tajine Pollo was really tasty (B+).
To finish I had some pastries; two kinds of Baklava from Syria (B+) and Hamsa (C) and Shubakia (D) pastries from Morocco.
As no alcohol is served here, I had two pots of tea; Te Marroqui with mint (B), and some Syrian something or other (C).
Total cost €21 which is as cheap as chips.
And if you’re near the cathedral…
Fior di Gelato (Elementary A), 3 Calle Acera del Casino
The best ice cream in Granada according to my friend Tom who lived in Granada for a while.
Going on their Kinder Bueno and Dulce de Leche, I can’t disagree with him (B+).
Phew, don’t know how I managed that lot in less than 48 hours! Still plenty left to do though. Granada I need to see you again!