Andalusia – eating tapas in Granada

Granada is famous for its tapas which traditionally come free with your drink. There are heaps of good tapas bars, too many to sample in a weekend, but here are a few famous ones that I quite liked. You’ll find them all on my map, along with many more that are untried.

Please also see my following post for Restaurants and Takeaways in Granada.

Antigua Bodega Castaneda (Intermediate A), 5 Calle Elvira and another entrance on Calle Almireceros, m.facebook.com/BodegasCastaNeda

This famous restaurant and tapas bar was my favourite dining experience in Granada. It has heaps of atmosphere, the staff are really nice and the food is great.

My friend Nicky and I sat outside in the cool alley and shared the local speciality Habas con Jamon (broad beans with some wonderful cured ham from nearby Trevelez, served with a fried egg). Unsightly but very tasty (A).

We also had the Carrillada Iberica, pork cheeks, (B) and a bottle of Habla del Silencio, a favourite red of mine from Extramadura (B+). The bill came to about €30 each. A great little spot, definitely recommended.

Taberna La Tana (Low Intermediate A), 3 Placeta del Agua, www.tabernalatana.com

I love this tiny tapas bar with its pretty rustic décor and friendly staff. Due to its size and popularity, it’s best to arrive as soon as they open if you want a table.

I didn’t eat much as this was my last stop on a lengthy tapeo but the freebies I had were very good so I presume everything else is.

The owner is a sommelier (sumiller) and he has an extensive selection of excellent wines.

I’ll come here first next time!

Chikito (High Intermediate B+), 9 Plaza del Campillo, www.restaurantechikito.com

A very famous and long-standing locale, beloved by the local great and good. An earlier incarnation was frequented by local poet, Federico García Lorca.

You can sit outside in the pretty square or…

… sit down in the restaurant, or do as I did and stand in the tapas bar.

In accordance with local tradition, free tapas came automatically with each glass of wine I had.

I wasn’t too keen on the local Muñana (C) red wine but the Morcilla (black pudding) tapa it came with was quite sweet and liquid (B).

The Pinchos Moruno (pork kebab) were a bit tough but still tasty (B). I enjoyed the Añares Rioja as well (B).

The final bill was a mere €6 but à la carte would be more expensive.

Cunini (Intermediate B+), 14 Plaza de Pescaderia, www.cunini.es

A very famous restaurant and marisqueria which is one of the best places for fish and seafood in Granada. There’s a busy terraza outside, a restaurant area which I haven’t seen, and a frenetic tapas bar, which was where I did my best to get served on a very busy Saturday lunchtime.

Attracting the attention of a bartender whilst standing behind people eating at the bar is the first challenge, the second is finding somewhere to put your plate once you’ve been served. Inevitably a fair bit of waiting is involved, especially between getting your drink and receiving your free tapa.

I had two glasses of a decent verdejo (B), a free tapa of very wet paella with tiny crabs and clams (B)…

…and a purchased plate of Necoras, velvet crab (B+).

I didn’t wait around for my second free tapa as it took too long to arrive. To be fair, the guys on the bar work their socks off and my chap was quite affable despite being driven to distraction. I’d definitely come again but would try to time it better to avoid the crowds.

Löwe Gastrobar (Intermediate B+), 6 Calle Ángel Ganivet, Calle Ganivet, www.liongranada.com

A rather soulless modern bar with no outside terrace. However, they sell excellent award-winning, if slightly pricey, tapas.

I had three tapas (salmorejo, hamurguesa, ensalada rusa) and two glasses of wine for €7.40, all of which were very good (B).

Pescaderia Puri y Sandra (Elementary B+), San Agustín Market, Plaza de San Agustín

Located in San Agustín Market, this is a fishmongers that serves its own produce.

It seems very popular with the locals (I was lucky to get a seat), perhaps because it’s better value than the posher or more touristy places above.

A prawn loving Norwegian like myself couldn’t help but be impressed by their display.

Even if some of it is a bit frightening.

I went for a plate of prawns (B+)…

… and a glass of Verdejo (B+), both of which did the business.

There are many other tapas bars in the market to try, definitely a good spot.

And that was my very brief experience of the tapas scene in Granada, although I think I’ve done a pretty good job of finding some of the best ones.

Plenty left for next time though. Restaurants next…

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