Rome – Centro Storico – eating and shopping at the Mercato di Testaccio

One of the reasons I’d love to live in Testaccio is because it has an excellent food market, the Nuovo Mercato Comunale di Testaccio, at 12/E Via Beniamino Franklin.

You can find it on this neighbourhood map and on my city map.

The old Testaccio market was replaced by this modern sustainably-powered building in 2012.

It’s a great place to buy typical Roman produce and ingredients. I just wish I’d had a kitchen to cook them in! The green shoots in the picture at the bottom are Puntarelle, chicory sprouts, which are quite particular to Roman cuisine.

I came to this stall in the market for my second breakfast nearly every day…

Mordi & Vai, Box 15, Mercato di Testaccio,

‘Bite & Go’ is a purveyor of the Panino Romanesco; old school Roman recipes in a modern sandwich format. The owner Sergio Esposito, a retired butcher, was regional champion in the street food category for Roman cuisine in the 2013 Gambero Rosso awards.

I had three of the top four sandwiches on their menu on consecutive mornings. In Italy a sandwich isn’t really a breakfast thing (they only open at 10am) but I made it one.

Each time I had the Allesso di Scottona (boiled beef brisket). On the first occasion I had it ‘alla Pichhiapo’ (simmered in an onion-rich tomato sauce with celery, carrots, tomato sauce, extra virgin olive oil and chilli), and the next time with ‘Cicorietta’ (sautéed chicory), which they consider to be their classics, and I don’t disagree (A). Finally ‘alla Macellara’ (in ‘the butcher’s style’, stewed with cherry tomatoes) which was pretty good too (B).

Next time I want to try the Vitella e Carciofi (veal with artichokes in a gravy) and the Tripa alla Romana (tripe simmered in tomato sauce and topped with fresh mint and pecorino), the latter another famous local dish that originated in Testaccio.

On the outside of the market, so open at night, I can also recommend Pompi at 89-91 Via Galvani for their famous takeaway Tiramisu.

Just over on the next block from the market is this huge painting called “Jumping Wolf ” by Roa, a street artist from Belgium whose work I’ve also admired in Freemantle and Perth (posts here and here). Click to expand.

My favourite restaurant in Testaccio next!

Leave a Reply