Lyon – Gourmet Thrills in the 3rd Arrondissement

For my last night in Lyon I stayed in a hotel near the main train station, the Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu. This was handy for a couple of places nearby. My Google map is here.

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse (Intermediate A), 102 Cours Lafayette,

This famous indoor food market is one of the reasons Lyon has such a great gastronomic reputation. The celebrity chef Paul Bocuse added his name to the title to give it even more weight.

Around fifty vendors ply their wares here, including excellent fishmongers, butchers, cheesemongers, confectioners and bakers. Click on the pics for a better view.

Something you’ll see often is the Praline Brioche for which Lyon is famous. The story goes that in the 18th century, a Lyonnais pastry chef was inspired by local rose gardens to add a bit of colour to the dough.

There’s an incredible range of top quality ingredients available. Here’s a few that caught my eye.

Of course, there are many places where you can eat as well…

Chez Georges (Intermediate B+), inside Les Halles de Lyon, 102 Cours Lafayette

I treated myself to a seafood blowout here.

I had the Assiete de Fruits de Mer; fourteen oysters (six Huitres Fines de Claires no.3, four Huitres Isigny no.2 and four Huitres Gillardeau no.4) and two kinds of prawns (50g Crevettes Grises and three Crevettes Roses) and 100g of whelks (Bulots).

And because I love them, I added another half dozen Crevettes Roses.

The Assiete cost €46.50, the Vin du Mois 28€ and the extra prawns were €9.50.

With a glass of Poire William, the final bill was €91, which is about right really.

Everybody needs to do this on a regular basis!

And a short walk away is…

Daniel et Denise Crequi (Intermediate A), 156 Rue de Créqui,

Daniel et Denise is another bouchon with a good reputation. This branch is I think the original location out of the three restaurants in the chain.

I came twice, and ate very well both times. The first time I came in the evening and sat inside.

To start I had the ubiquitous La Cervelle de Canut au vinaigre de vin vieux, or the local fresh cheese served with aged vinegar, parsley, chives, shallot and garlic.

For the main, Le Contre Filet de Boeuf Angus Poêle, or pan-fried Angus sirloin steak, with black pepper, flambéd in Cognac.

And to drink a bottle of La Rosine 2014 Syrah.

Also some more cheese, I forget which.

Before finishing with a vanilla flavoured Crème Brûlée.

And a glass of Poire William by Morand.

On the next occasion I came for lunch and sat outside on the pavement terrace.

This time I had the Menu de Saison for €33 which kicked off with Le Pâté en Croute au Foie Gras de Canard et Ris de Veau or foie gras and sweetbread pâté in a pastry case. This dish won a World Champion award in 2009.

For the main, Le Jambon Blanc a l’os Rôti, Sauce Madère, or whole roasted ham on the bone in a Madeira sauce.

With all the trimmings of course.

I splashed out on a bottle of Crozes Hermitage Nouvelere.

And to round it off, my first experience of the famous dessert; L’Îes Flottante aux Pralines de Saint Genix, aka Floating Island, a meringue floating on a vanilla custard with pralines from the village of Saint-Genix-sur-Guiers which is famous for them.

And a glass of Sempe Armagnac to finish.

Although I didn’t grade this food, I remember it was all good hearty fare that warmed the cockles, not haute cuisine by any means, just sturdy classical cooking. Definitely recommended.

Off to the countryside next!

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